cooling problems

[jbaer619]

Hey guys, So heres the problem, the cooling works fine during idle but as soon as I engage the gears, water stops coming out of the headers and the engine starts to overheat. I'm thinking I ran some hoses wrong. So this is how I ran them, tell me where I went wrong: The inlet splits into 2 openings, the bigger of the 2 went through the cam driven pump into the block, out the intake manifold and through the headers. The smaller 1 went into the v-drive gears and out where the prop exits the boat..... See anything wrong with that? Thanks

[Smiley92362004]

It was my understanding that the original engines water pump had to be replaced because it would only circulate water, would not actually pull outside water in at enough pressure to cool everything. I switched to a belt driven pump which seems to work fine. But the guys here on this site could give you better insight, they all seem very, very smart. I learn so much just be reading the threads. Thanks everyone.

[gfinishline]

"Baer" please show some pix. I never plumb the V-drive cooling with the motor. Your idle speed may be low enough (in gear) to reduce the water flow thru the motor. Do you have "headers or manifolds"? It's important to know this point first.

[jbaer619]

here is a drawing ( I know I cant draw haha) I made to kind of tie the pictures together.... Also the headers do go over the transom

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj49/jbaer619/drawing2001.jpg

here is the inlet
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj49/jbaer619/PIC-0029.jpg

here is the pump set up
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj49/jbaer619/PIC-0028.jpg

this connects the v-drive to the inlet
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj49/jbaer619/PIC-0025.jpg

[jbaer619]

this connects the v-drive to the prop
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj49/jbaer619/PIC-0027.jpg

this is where it either exits or enters through the prop
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj49/jbaer619/PIC-0026.jpg

[63Stevens]

Remember that the water is going to go were there is the least resistance.
Water injected headers do not require alot of water. The engine requires more water than you are giving it. Because of the small lines that go to the headers you are holding the water to long in the engine. You need to have another pickup for your v-drive or feed the v-drive after the water pump. You also need to dump the water out of the engine something different than to the headers. You also need to run a pressure regulator to the headers so that when you are at an idle you are getting very little water to the headers. As the pressure goes up then more water is released to the headers

[AzDon]

Have you ever tried to suck a beverage thru a cracked straw?? Didn't work too well, did it?
It's my guess that as your water pump is trying to suck water up from that inlet, that it is sucking air from the shaft log dump thru the v-drive and into the straw. While the boat sits idle in the water, the shaft log well is submerged, so no air!
You could install a backflow valve in the v-drive feed line to plug the hole in the engine's suction straw, but then you will have eliminated ALL flow thru the v-drive.
To continue using just that one pickup for both, install the v-drive tee AFTER the water pump so there will be PRESSURE to the drive rather than SUCTION!
While we are looking at heat problems, pull the cover and check the impeller. If there are blades missing, you will need a new impeller AND you will need to locate the missing blade pieces. If you physically eyeball the hoses and fittings from the pickup to the engine and don't find them, then OKAY.
I see also that you have a neovane pump..... The last one of those I had sucked air... Replaced with a Glenwood Magnaflow and haven't worried about water supply since!

[AzDon]

This hasn't been said in awhile, but I think it's important and appropriate to this thread....When you are running the boat on the trailer, you should have a pickup hose from the pump placed into a five gallon bucket of water being fed by your garden hose. If you choose to, instead, force-feed from the garden hose, you will have no idea if the pump works. Whats more, force feeding will blow the impeller blades over from the trailing side of the rotation and they could easily get broken and then the pump wont work.

[Rattle Can Lou]

I don't want to be a badass, but you need to put a gallon of Simple green in the bottom of that thing and go for a drive. When you allow that kinda oil to sit in the bottom and get into everything you are shortening the life of the boat. You can't see delamination or any other problems you might incur. I want to be nice to everybody but sometimes young boaters don't realize these things. I put Mr. Clean in the bottom or simple green and I put aobut 5 gallons of water in it for the trip home from the lake...only if I have an oil leak that I havent solved yet...just my opinion.


Do I sound like Art or George?

[jbaer619]

yeah thats the way I do it, Also if you force feed it you could flood the headers (while the engine is off) beyond the capabilities of the drain holes and get water in the cylinders and warp the valves.

Also yea I know I have to clean the bottom out, but im waiting to finish completely cause I know as soon as I clean it thoroughly somethings gonna call for getting it really dirty again

And I think I found out what it is... I took it to a local boat shop and the guy suggested that I swap the hoses on the v-drive and test it out.... So you know what that means!!! I have an excuse to go to the river on a weekday!!!!! I'll let you guys know how it goes tomorrow.

[Rattle Can Lou]

That will not cure your problem....anyone else agree. The v-drive doesnt care which inlet you use to put water in or get it out. I think if you get rid of the T and not cool the v-drive and go to the river and test. You will find that the motor wil cool then...Am I wrong???

[Wannabe]

I put Mr. Clean in the bottom or simple green and I put aobut 5 gallons of water in it for the trip home from the lake...only if I have an oil leak that I havent solved yet...just my opinion.


Do I sound like Art or George?

That is why I have carbon fiber boats. They are already black, so the gunk looks like it belongs!

And you don't sound like either. You kinda sound like Rattle Can Lou.

[jbaer619]

well correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the v-drive sucked up water when it was engaged? If this is correct then 1 port would pull water causing the other to push. I think that the v-drive was pulling water from the T, which would rob the engine of water if the engines water pump was less powerful than the v-drives.

[SPUN1]

I'm sooooo confuseded:confused::D

[Wannabe]

The v-drive water passage is just that. There is nothing that moves water. It is an open chamber, that is all. You have to force it one direction or another to move anything. So the water pump can pull up air from the shaft log seal and through the v-drive and take air into the pump. If you add a quick one way valve in line to the v-drive you could check really quick if it is sucking air. Or just plug off the line to the v-drive. That should tell you really quick. (You can run a v-drive without water, but it does get a little hot on long runs.)
But to answer the question, the v-drive does not suck water. It just sits there.

[gfinishline]

I saw the drawing and I still have no idea what is going on! I have seen a few boats with water cooling!

[jbaer619]

what about the v-drive overheating then ....... Should I even worry? Also I'm kinda embarassed to bring this up but I thought the v-drive was water lubricated??? is it oil? Haha see this is why I havent cleaned the bottom out now I'm gonna have to change that oil and its gonna get all over the place... So if it is oil how much and what kind do I need?

[SnoC653]

It is oil in the V-drive (Redline is recomended) and why would it get all over the place? Use a suction pump and drain it. Then refill it. Where the hose connects from the Vdrive to the shaft log is a dump. It helps keep the shaft log wet which means lubricated. Most boats have a seperate pickup for the v-drive unit. But, making sure enough water makes it through the engine is the important thing. Then the V-drive. Then the exhaust. So your number one priority is to keep the engine from over heating. What it doesn't pump into the engine can go to the v-drive as stated by moving the T to after the pump. Then you really should have some type of valve and overflow on the exhaust so you don't get too much water in the exhaust at an idle and have it go back into the engine and hydrolic the engine.

[SnoC653]

You might consider running your water like this. I'm sure if I'm wrong someone will tell us right away.
http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/picture.php?albumid=148&pictureid=863

[gfinishline]

I would just run the water pump water to the motor. Let the V-drive use it's own 'force fed' pick up and 'log dump', as needed. I would also put a 1/8" pipe plug with a 7/32" hole drilled in it into the "T" inlet. This will reduce the water flow to the headers and make the valve react more quickly to throttle closing. I want NO HEADER WATER at idle and header water to start around 2500RPMs.

[SnoC653]

I would just run the water pump water to the motor. Let the V-drive use it's own 'force fed' pick up and 'log dump', as needed. I would also put a 1/8" pipe plug with a 7/32" hole drilled in it into the "T" inlet. This will reduce the water flow to the headers and make the valve react more quickly to throttle closing. I want NO HEADER WATER at idle and header water to start around 2500RPMs.

I agree with the V-drive using it's own pickup but he only has the one from what he said. If you follow George's advice you can't go wrong. Adding the extra pickup isn't that much work and then you could route it exactly as he said.

[jbaer619]

ok I think what Im gonna do is bring a bunch of supplies out to the river with me tomorrow and try all of the suggestions and see which one works best

[RiverRacer]

I don't want to be a badass, but you need to put a gallon of Simple green in the bottom of that thing and go for a drive. When you allow that kinda oil to sit in the bottom and get into everything you are shortening the life of the boat. You can't see delamination or any other problems you might incur. I want to be nice to everybody but sometimes young boaters don't realize these things. I put Mr. Clean in the bottom or simple green and I put aobut 5 gallons of water in it for the trip home from the lake...only if I have an oil leak that I havent solved yet...just my opinion.


Do I sound like Art or George?

I use Tide and in his condition I'd use two large boxes and fill it with water half ways up the stringers, then go for a long ride!..:D

[RiverRacer]

The K.I.S.S. method!. -10 line from the pickup to the pump, two -08 to the block(where auto water pump bolts on),two -08 from the intake to dump!. If you "insist" on running water through the headers, tap the bypass hole in the intake for a Bassett T valve and run -06 lines to the headers!. Use a small -06 pickup in the floor by the v-drive to feed it and dump into the shaft log, done deal!. And unless you run hard all the time you don't even need any water through the v-drive!..

[warpt71]

The K.I.S.S. method!. -10 line from the pickup to the pump, two -08 to the block(where auto water pump bolts on),two -08 from the intake to dump!. If you "insist" on running water through the headers, tap the bypass hole in the intake for a Bassett T valve and run -06 lines to the headers!. Use a small -06 pickup in the floor by the v-drive to feed it and dump into the shaft log, done deal!. And unless you run hard all the time you don't even need any water through the v-drive!..

This is almost exactly how my Hondo is plumbed and it works w/ out a single problem!!!

Listen up now :D

[Moneypit]

I use Tide and in his condition I'd use two large boxes and fill it with water half ways up the stringers, then go for a long ride!..

Art, I seem to remember 2 jugs of dish soap, 800 miles, a steep hillside off the side of the highway, duct tape removed from the j drains,:eek: and the whole process again, from Morgan City to timbucktoo, Texas, and from Texas to Mesa, and the boat was still an oily mess.................:D:

That said, this cooling issue will be solved by removing the "T" before the pump as first stated by Don......The pumps sucking air, (IF it is sucking at all).....The header dumps are a tough deal to dial in and try to save the chrome, while not flooding the engine at idle. As Art has said in the past, jack up the Bassett T spring to STIFF enough to close at less than 2-2500. Also dump the other outlet, (heater hose fitting on the intake) over board thru a ball valve within reach of the driver, and dumped out the driver's side so he can stick his hand in the water to see how hot the exiting water is. IMO, the v drive should have it's own water source, a simple ram tube is more than enough for the v drive, and could, in this instance, be too much. The idea that the v drive was WATER LUBED is kinda scary. Where do you suppose he got that idea? Maybe he found water inside?........Now I guess we should mention SAFETY COLLARS. The pics didn't show IF there were any:eek:?????????

I also have several pumps/parts/pieces for the Neovanes if he finds a problem in there. I do not however, have any extra impellers other than my spare for the hydro. I would suggest a through search thru the cooling system for any missing blades off the existing impeller, AND call Rex and order at least 3 new ones. Cheap insurance for your boating trips, and the kits come with gaskets and alignment pins for re assembly. Ray:D

PS Art, check your PMs about the scoop.......

[hm66Howard]

Before you go back on the lake, you need to set your cavitation plate up right. I looked at your pics and the way it is right now, someone is gonna get hurt! RR and gfinish can set you straight (no pun intended) on this. Keep it safe! :)

[AzDon]

I think you'd better re-read my first post carefully, because I believe that you are drawing air backwards thru the v-drive feed system. There is no pump or directional control in that system, so your water pump is pulling from the v-drive cooling system when the actual intent is to feed it and then dump into the shaft log well.
Think about this: The hose from the pickup to the inlet of the pump has SUCTION NOT PRESSURE!!! It's as simple as understanding WHAT SUCKS and WHAT BLOWS!! All you need to do is move the v-drive feed hose to the pressure side of the pump. Since it will be pressurized, reduce the v-drive feed hose to 3/8" so that it won't bleed too much of the engine's cooling water.
To add to what RCL said, the aluminum parts, especially the cast ones look as if the've been stored in a covered boat with rain-forest humidity or with standing water in it. A boat stored outdoors should always be stored facing uphill with the tongue of the trailer propped as high as possible so the boat will drain (with the plugs out, of course!) West Marine and Overtons sell products to de-humidify the storage environment if garage storage isn't possible!

[AzDon]

The diagram with the colored lines is wrong because it still shows that damn tee tied into the suction hose....Is what i've said that hard to understand???

Switching the cooling hoses on the v-drive is comical.... there's no pump in there, so I don't understand what that "professional" thinks he accomplished (?)

And v-drive oil level?... That deserves it's own thread!

[AzDon]

What I did on one of my boats was feed the v-drive cooling with a 3/8" hose teed in between the pump and the engine. I then teed the v-drive cooling dump hose into the pump pickup hose.
This worked because the v-drive cooling was a closed loop within the engine's cooling system, fed by positive pump pressure and aided by suction at the dump end. The v-drive heat recirculated into the suction hose would be insignificant

[RiverRacer]

Before you go back on the lake, you need to set your cavitation plate up right. I looked at your pics and the way it is right now, someone is gonna get hurt! RR and gfinish can set you straight (no pun intended) on this. Keep it safe! :)

I missed this part, that is totally wrong there!..:eek:

http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/picture.php?albumid=164&pictureid=857

[SnoC653]

The diagram with the colored lines in wrong because it still shows that damn tee tied into the suction hose....Is what i've said that hard to understand???

Switching the cooling hoses on the v-drive is comical.... there's no pump in there, so I don't understand what that "professional" thinks he accomplished (?)

And v-drive oil level?... That deserves it's own thread!

No but apperntly what I drew is. There is no T between the inlet and the pump. The one line came off the pump and went to the engine (with a t to both sides) and the other outlet went to the v-drive. This was only if he planned to not instal a seperate pickup for the v-drive as has been discussed as optimal. I chose not to t a line going to the engine inlet to the v-drive so as to not cause uneven flow which could cause uneven cooling to the engine heads. If this is still confusing I'll remove the image. Heck for that mater you can just remove it too. :D

[AzDon]

I'm not looking for a fight or argument...... I re-visited your diagram and I do not see a physical item representing the pump, only the word pump above that damn tee, giving me the impression that you drew a pic of what he has now got, which is a hole in his suction straw!
His photo album has engine specs with quite an impressive list of parts and I'm trying to give him a clear understanding of a plumbing mistake that he clearly has shown to exist on his boat, so that he won't cook it!!
Will fixing it solve his overheating problem? I'm going to answer that he is going to continue to have an overheating problem UNTIL HE CORRECTS THIS PLUMBING MISTAKE!

[SnoC653]

I'm not looking for a fight or argument...... I re-visited your diagram and I do not see a physical item representing the pump, only the word pump above that damn tee, giving me the impression that you drew a pic of what he has now got, which is a hole in his suction straw!
His photo album has engine specs with quite an impressive list of parts and I'm trying to give him a clear understanding of a plumbing mistake that he clearly has shown to exist on his boat, so that he won't cook it!!
Will fixing it solve his overheating problem? I'm going to answer that he is going to continue to have an overheating problem UNTIL HE CORRECTS THIS PLUMBING MISTAKE!

Now you know why I come here. I'm not an artist nor a v-drive boat guru. I agree, he needs to get it fixed before he wastes his engine. Sorry for the confusion on the drawing. A seperate pickup is still the way to go for the V-drive. At least everybody agrees that reversing the hoses on the V-drive won't make it pump water. Well, everyone but the alledged mechanic.

[gfinishline]

"OK everyone, Don came by to show me his prop and now HE is starting fights" "It's not Don's fault!" "He came in contact with me, that is his only sin". "Forgive Don for he knows not what he has done". HA HA!

[SnoC653]

He's not fighting. And it's not his nor your fault that I can't draw. But one of you should help this guy get his plates set right. That looks all wrong.

[AquaCraft]

The inlet splits into 2 openings, the bigger of the 2 went through the cam driven pump into the block, out the intake manifold and through the headers. The smaller 1 went into the v-drive gears and out where the prop exits the boat..... See anything wrong with that? Thanks

Your pump suction line (inlet) is incorrect. Remove the "t" fitting and plumb the line from the water pickup to the pump direct. AZDon is right; your pump suction line (inlet) is comprimised. Provide another or find another source of water on the "pressure" side of your cooling system for the v-drive and shaft log. Great drawing; the problem looks clear.

[RiverRacer]

This is almost exactly how my Hondo is plumbed and it works w/ out a single problem!!!

Listen up now :D

Just plain stupid simple, a no brainer what more could you ask for!..LOL..:D

[jbaer619]

ok guys before anyone kills anyone over this... I got a set up which seems to be working fine. Im sure someone suggested this but I got so lost im not sure who... Anyways First I eliminated the T before the pump, then it pumps through the engine, and at the outlet instead of both hoses going to the headers, I have 1 going to the headers and the other goes through the V-drive. It's simple, everything gets cooling and I dont have to drill anything or plumb any valves.. now If anyone sees anything wrong with this set up please let me know. Thanks

[SnoC653]

The problem with the setup the way you have it is there is a good chance you'll get too much water into the exhaust at a low rpm and reversion will suck the water back into the heads, hydraulicing the motor. The valve you need is to control the flow of water to the exhaust so that this doesn't happen. You might also still consider and overflow line to help let water pressure escape and not force all the water thru the shaftlog or out the exhaust. But, at least it is cooling now.

[jbaer619]

so what kinda valve do I need and where would I get it? Also Its still not cooling right. I had it out on the trailer running earlier and water was going through the engine but it was just getting hot really fast. I would rev the engine and the temperature uld just jump up about 20 degrees at a time.

[lebel409]

You've got a lot smarter people than me giving you suggestions...but here goes.

Follow Art's Plumbing...pickup, pump, block, headers, and out.

The V drive has nothing to do with the engine cooling system...a simple pickup, through the v drive and out (either back out the bottom or the exiting the shaft log). No pump involved.

[AzDon]

I believe that header water injection ports are very small and restrictive as are the fittings and passages on the v-drive. This keeps the water in the block pressurized, which is good to a point. What I would do in order to be able to relieve some of that pressure and to be able to keep excess water out of the exhaust at idle, is: I'd have a 3/4" dump hose come off of the thermostat that is plumbed to a 3/4" ball valve near the driver seat and have a thru-hull dump out the side right next to where I sit. This would be to a) relieve pressure at will and b) give you a visual reference that your pump works (when valve is open)
On my boat, I leave this valve open most of the time, but then I have a Glenwood pump that provides about three times the water!

[SnoC653]

so what kinda valve do I need and where would I get it? Also Its still not cooling right. I had it out on the trailer running earlier and water was going through the engine but it was just getting hot really fast. I would rev the engine and the temperature uld just jump up about 20 degrees at a time.

here is a link to the valve. The basset valve would control the water to the exhaust manifolds. http://www.rexmar.com/page228.html and this page has the small pick ups for the V drive. http://www.rexmar.com/page169.html If the water isn't circulating it can't cool the engine. Try unhooking the line you plumbed to the v-drive and have it dump over the side. See if the engine stays cool that way.

[SnoC653]

I believe that header water injection ports are very small and restrictive as are the fittings and passages on the v-drive. This keeps the water in the block pressurized, which is good to a point. What I would do in order to be able to relieve some of that pressure and to be able to keep excess water out of the exhaust at idle, is: I'd have a 3/4" dump hose come off of the thermostat that is plumbed to a 3/4" ball valve near the driver seat and have a thru-hull dump out the side right next to where I sit. This would be to a) relieve pressure at will and b) give you a visual reference that your pump works (when valve is open)
On my boat, I leave this valve open most of the time, but then I have a Glenwood pump that provides about three times the water!

This is where much greater experience comes in. While I was trying to think how to discribe it, Don nailed it. Follow this advice and you won't go wrong.

[AzDon]

Is your impeller all there? If not, you need to replace and find ALL missing pieces!
You must also physically clean all hoses and fittings. A little debris can cause overheat problems even if there's some flow!

[RiverRacer]

Wow, can't believe all this complicated plumbing $hit, refer to post#24 helloooo!.. As far as the headers go there is a restriction fitting at the header manifold where the lines fastens to but it is too large, need to drill and tap it and put jets in .075-.090 depending on the pressure just have to play with that, you don't want solid water in the headers just a mist!. The v-drive don't have any restrictions, just -06 line from it's own pickup and the same to the dump, and like I said unless you're running marathon races you don't even need water to the v-drive!.. First thing to do is make sure there is no garbage restricting the flow of water!..

[warpt71]

Thats too easy!!

[RiverRacer]

Thats too easy!!

Yeah, and for some dumb stupid reason I like it, weird huh!..:rolleyes::D:D

[warpt71]

Do you want me to throw up a picture of my setup? Easly copied and nice and simple!!

[jbaer619]

thats the way its running (haha or was running) now. Just a mist out of the headers. I actually like the way it's set up now. I can tell the pump is working by looking at the headers and the v-drive is getting water. So If I do wanna run a marithon, or just cruise up to your part of the river RR I can

[RiverRacer]

Do you want me to throw up a picture of my setup? Easly copied and nice and simple!!

Well, they say a pic is worth a 1000 words(I've already said more)maybe it will sink in, LOL..:D

[warpt71]

Here I even took the time to lable most of the lines. The only difference is that I used all -08 lines, from pick up to dumps. The v-drive has its own pick up and dump through the floor w/ -06 lines

http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/attachment.php?attachmentid=1017&stc=1&d=1219900235

Hope you guys are taking notes, there will be a quiz in 2 weeks :D:D

[jbaer619]

thats basicly how I ran mine except instead of dumping out the transom I ran it through the v-drive ( killing 2 birds with 1 stone). Also I really didn't feel like blowing $500.00 on braided steel hose and conectors.:)

[RiverRacer]

I ran it through the v-drive ( killing 2 birds with 1 stone). Also I really didn't feel like blowing $500.00 on braided steel hose and conectors.:)

That's not killing two birds with one stone it's overheating the motor, that's a huge restriction, also builds up pressure in the motor!..

[RiverRacer]

Hope you guys are taking notes, there will be a quiz in 2 weeks :D:D

What do I win!..:D

[Wannabe]

I was trying to draw a schematic of the Schiada, but got carpel tunnel and stopped.

[hm66Howard]

thats basicly how I ran mine except instead of dumping out the transom I ran it through the v-drive ( killing 2 birds with 1 stone). Also I really didn't feel like blowing $500.00 on braided steel hose and conectors.:)Running hot water through the v-drive to cool it. Huh. This thread has gone on a ridiculusly long rant about something so simple. Baer, just listen to these guys and your problem is solved.:)

[warpt71]

What do I win!..:D

Ill let you drive a real boat!

[Flatmvn]

Ill let you drive a real boat!

You are complaining about not having gas money to get to the river, how are you going to afford a REAL BOAT for Art to drive....:rolleyes::D:D

[warpt71]

You are complaining about not having gas money to get to the river, how are you going to afford a REAL BOAT for Art to drive....:rolleyes::D:D

Hey I have been workin my ass off! I think Ill have the money?!?! I was invited to the River this weekend, your neck of the woods actually lol, but turned down the offer to save money to go w/ you in 2 weeks! Ill be there, dont you worry :D

[Mrs. RiverRacer]

you better be there after bugging me about Breakfast.:D

Sandy

[RiverRacer]

Ill let you drive a real boat!

WTF, you have a circle boat!..:confused::D:D

[warpt71]

you better be there after bugging me about Breakfast.:D

Sandy

Its lookin good! Probably drive out late Friday night, after the traffic dies down

WTF, you have a circle boat!..:confused::D:D

It'll turn!!!

[RiverRacer]

Its lookin good! Probably drive out late Friday night, after the traffic dies down
So we'll see ya at Castle Rock Sat then right!..

It'll turn!!!
Single pin at 70mph!..:D

[warpt71]

So we'll see ya at Castle Rock Sat then right!..


Single pin at 70mph!..:D

Wrong thread but........Oh well lol

Im hoping to be around Sat! If you want to try and turn it at 70 go for it! I have gone around the bend of Echo flat footed?

[RiverRacer]

Wrong thread but........Oh well lol

Im hoping to be around Sat! If you want to try and turn it at 70 go for it! I have gone around the bend of Echo flat footed?

Cool see ya there, anything will go around the bend at Echo, LOL.. Spin your boat at 70 you gotta be shittin, not me I ain't goin on my ass, LOL...:D

Ok back on topic!...:D

[warpt71]

Haha, topic, My boat runs nice and cool and the headers stay nice and shiny chrome cause I have water to them too :D :D :D

[RiverRacer]

Haha, topic, My boat runs nice and cool and the headers stay nice and shiny chrome cause I have water to them too :D :D :D

Fock that chrome $hit I like my valves, LOL...:D

[jbaer619]

Ok, now this should make everyone happy and I'm pretty sure it works (i'll find out tomorrow:cool:) Water comes in through the freshly rebuilt pump, goes through the block, one 3/4 hose goes out the transom, the other 5/8 is pressure controlled and goes out the headers.... v-drive runs centrivical force from the transom (under the water line) through the v-drive, out the shaft dump (or vice versa not sure which way its gonna run).

[RiverRacer]

v-drive runs centrivical force from the transom (under the water line)

:confused::confused::confused:

[jbaer619]

the hose is completely under the water line so there is no head pressure and runs through a newly made hose port in the transom.. as for the centrifugal force I dont know.... all I know is there is a passage way and some water should make it through. (somes better than none... and it doesnt interfere with anything else)

[RiverRacer]

the hose is completely under the water line

What does that mean??, you have a separate pickup through the bottom of the boat or what???

[jbaer619]

kinda I have a hose that runs from the v-drive inside the boat to a pickup about 4 inches above the cavitation plate

[warpt71]

And you think your plate is under water when your UP on plain!!!!!!!!!!!

[RiverRacer]

a pickup about 4 inches above the cavitation plate

WTF???????????????:confused::confused::confused:

[jbaer619]

ok then it'll get water when i'm not on plane, I haven't drilled it yeso if you have any better suggestions shoot... but all i know is I'm not drilling anything through any part of the bottom, how do you have your v-dive cooling set up?

[jbaer619]

my bad.... 1/2 an inch above the plate

[RiverRacer]

my bad.... 1/2 an inch above the plate

You got to be shittin!..

[RiverRacer]

how do you have your v-dive cooling set up?

The "RIGHT" way, a -06 pickup by the the v-drive and dump in the shaft log!..

[jbaer619]

what!! I havent drilled the hole yet!! whats wrong with that set up????

[warpt71]

I have a pickup through the floor just behind the v-drive. nothing wrong w/ putting a pickup through the floor, just seal it up!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[RiverRacer]

what!! I havent drilled the hole yet!! whats wrong with that set up????

A 1/2" above the plate WTF is that what hole???????????????

[jbaer619]

I was going to put one there with my drill

[warpt71]

GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How clear does it have to be before you get it???????????

[Flatmvn]

jbaer where are you located, if there is any one here on the boards that can come by and point things out to I suggest inlisting some help, apparently you are not listning to what you are being told and you are over complicating the situation.

[hm66Howard]

I am laughing my ass off right now. I can't believe this. Baer, DO NOT, I repete, DO NOT drill a hole in your transom! Somebody please take the drill out of his hands! How much simpler could this possibly be!:confused::confused::confused:

[jbaer619]

wow my head hurts. I already decided not to drill the hole a while ago!!!! and I'm trying to listen but really after all those posts the only advice i got was to run it through the bottom which is what I'm doing if the boat decides to work tomorrow..... If it doesnt ima sink the f'in POS tie an empty keg to it and send out coordinates to anyone that wants it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Hurricane]

This is silly, must be a .... Test?

[RiverRacer]

I give up!..:rolleyes:

[cjbuilder1]

Who's on third?

[Terrible toy]

What's on second...:confused:

I'm staying out of this discussion except to add that I would eliminate the water to the v drive, that would simplify the water plumbing a bunch. I think Andy had the Parker 500 in mind when he put the water passages in his v drives. Just use an single prop shaft grease seal. I never had any heating issues with v drives in drag or ski boats. It's kind of like a friend of mine who has a Fountain with a three OD big blocks. He spent a fortune on drive showers for the thing. I asked him when was the last time he had the thing pegged for 5 hours straight.

[thecampbellman]

If this is for real...than LISTEN TO RIVERRACER...he is a huge asset here!refer to post 24 and set it up like he said...problem solved.:D:D:D