re-torqueing aluminum heads

[pudna]

Hey all! I was going to re-torque my dart pro 1 small chevy heads. Can I do it with my intake manifold on and with spring tension still applied from the valves? Maybe I should do one at a time.
Oh , by the way I found some huge wet logs(hi-po)w/over transom pipes. My wife wont burn herself anymore. Does anyone know how I should plumb them. Thanks, Dave

[RiverRacer]

You sure you need to retorque them???... Run the water from the pump to the logs, then to the motor then to the O/T pipes!...

[pudna]

You sure you need to retorque them???... Run the water from the pump to the logs, then to the motor then to the O/T pipes!...

RiverRacer, Thanks again! Dave

[RiverRacer]

RiverRacer, Thanks again! Dave

No problemo amigo!....

[wagspe208]

Re torqueing depends upon head gasket more than head. It is not a bad idea to re check. Most likely they will not have moved. Don't remove anything but the valve covers and rockers if you need to. Spring pressure will not affect anything.
Wags

[pudna]

Re torqueing depends upon head gasket more than head. It is not a bad idea to re check. Most likely they will not have moved. Don't remove anything but the valve covers and rockers if you need to. Spring pressure will not affect anything.
Wags
Thanks, I think I will back off one at a time and re-lube and re-torque the same.

[RiverRacer]

Thanks, I think I will back off one at a time and re-lube and re-torque the same.

You don't back them off, just re torque!..

[RiverRacer]

I never re torque the heads don't see any reason for it, everytime you run the motor you can re torque and you'll pull it down some, and if you're using bolts you can do that until you pull the threads right out of the block. I always wait about 20 minutes after the first torque down and go over it one more time just to make sure that's it, after I run the shit out of it if they're is no comp/water leaks then it's good to go!.. I use those $15 MrGasket steel shim gaskets and no problems at all!.

[pudna]

I never re torque the heads don't see any reason for it, everytime you run the motor you can re torque and you'll pull it down some, and if you're using bolts you can do that until you pull the threads right out of the block. I always wait about 20 minutes after the first torque down and go over it one more time just to make sure that's it, after I run the shit out of it if they're is no comp/water leaks then it's good to go!.. I use those $15 MrGasket steel shim gaskets and no problems at all!.
Thanks, I think Ill just leave well enough alone. The motor is running fine. I have fel pro head gaskets and I torqued em to 70. Dave

[RiverRacer]

Thanks, I think Ill just leave well enough alone. The motor is running fine. I have fel pro head gaskets and I torqued em to 70. Dave

As long as the heads and block surfaces are true you're ok, if they're not then re torquing wouldn't help anyhow, even Fel-Pro says no re torquing is required!... I usually pull them to 75 but I guess 70 will work!..

[Moneypit]

As long as the heads and block surfaces are true you're ok, if they're not then re torquing wouldn't help anyhow, even Fel-Pro says no re torquing is required!... I usually pull them to 75 but I guess 70 will work!..

Aftermarket stuff well lubed?.........Isn't factory stuff higher?.........MP

[RiverRacer]

Aftermarket stuff well lubed?.........Isn't factory stuff higher?.........MP

Actually GM says 75 on the long bolts and 65 on the short with sealant, I always do em all the same!..