Bearer / stringer mounts

[rastas]

Hi guys,
I am currently changing my configuration to add a soft clutch to my boat.
The engine mount to bearers are 3" x 3" x 3/8 aluminium angle at the moment and I need to replace them.
I have had a quick look around town and only found 1/4 stuff.
I see on rexmarine that they advertise 1/4 angle, is this suitable as it will only ever be a ski boat :(

[RiverRacer]

I use 1/4" for rails and 3/8" for brackets!..

[rastas]

Thanks RR, Do you gusset them on the underside or just bolt them straight to the bearer??

[RiverRacer]

Sorry not sure what you mean, but this is a typical setup I do for a circle boat deal!..

http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/attachment.php?attachmentid=573&stc=1&d=1213931156

[rastas]

RR, The angle on my bearers face in towards each other, not over the top of the bearer, it is a bit hard to see in the image, but this is the only photo I have at work

[tunnelrunner]

Rastas, we are going to fabricate new engine rail etc for the new engine ( when I eventually get home) and wondered the same thing. What I decided to do was to bolt the angle straight to the stringers and have some spacers milled to compensate for the stringers not being vertical.

Another alternative might be to have the angle bent so the top surface is horizontal...only then it wont all be in contact with the stringer, hence why we opted for the spacers.

[rastas]

Thats probably not a bad idea tunnelrunner, I sure do like RR's setup but I don't think it would work in my application.
I have thought of going to SS, but will keep searching for alloy

[tunnelrunner]

SS will weigh a ton and its a lot harder to work with than ally. Shouldn't be too hard to source from any local fabricator, if they haven't got it, they'll get it.

I had intended to get angle 80mm x 45mm as the stringers in our boats are wider than most of the US boats. I'll reuse the stringer plates that I have instead of using washers.Just need to decide now whether to continue the ally forward to the v-drive like RR does. Easier to do in your case with the mid-mount. It probably isn't necessary with our horsepower levels tho I'd like the piece of mind in case we ever do mount a blower on the new motor.

[RiverRacer]

RR, The angle on my bearers face in towards each other, not over the top of the bearer, it is a bit hard to see in the image, but this is the only photo I have at work

Looks nice and clean!. But unless I'm missing something in the pic, it looks typical of a drag race setup to me???, nothing wrong with that!.. I don't see a problem doing it the other way though, just need to make new motor plates!..

http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/attachment.php?attachmentid=578&d=1213934617

[Florida Inboards]

Art
Very nice picture of your motor setup, It looks like that is the way to go.
What is the tolerance of your alignment tool?
Can you post some pictures of your strut bracing?
Also why not run the aluminum angle all the way to the V Drive?
Hopefully you dont mind giving out to many secrets.
Thanks.
Jody

[rastas]

Thanks Art, Although I would like something a bit cleaner with OT pipes etc, my wife has told me to find a happy medium.
The issue I have is that I am fitting a soft clutch (standard vehicle clutch) so that I can engage without banging clanging and grinding the dogs. (Really neat system for those into a bit of skiing and teaching the kids, they are sold as kit form from KMrolco)
For this the motor has to be moved back 4" and lowered about and inch.
The current conf. has the drive shaft to box at 8 degrees :( and I would like to drop the engine to get it down to at least 3degrees.
The angles are 10mm thick and I can't seem to purchase this unless I get a special order and then take the whole 6.5m.
I can purchase 6mm (1/4) aluminium or stainless, I don't think the 6mm alloy will be strong enough for this.

[RiverRacer]

Well gee wizz, I must be totally out of it because I don't see where the exhaust has anything to do with it this???, a clutch is common Lenco has that setup but that shouldn't have anything to do with it, moving the motor is no big deal just make sure(if you're using a u-joint deal)that the angle is constant, motor plates are 3/8" rails 1/4" and brackets are 3/8", line up the motor and fab up the parts to your liking!... What am I missing here,LOL..

[RiverRacer]

Thanks for the compliment Jody I appreciate it!.. No secrets it's all there in the pic, the alignment tool is for a solid shaft so tolerance is tight, I use an old junk prop shaft and I bore the two pieces that are clamped in the block just enough so I can slide the shaft(about .004),I made a dummy coupler for the v-drive end the same!... Strut bracing is whatever suits the application, just have to be creative, I'll look for a pic and post it!... In an all out high HP(K Boat)deal I would run the the angle up to include the v-drive, other than that it is not necessary!...

[rastas]

Sorry for rambling RR, I was just saying that I would rather have a nice boat like your old purple one (ot pipes, injection etc) than the one I have.

[RiverRacer]

Sorry for rambling RR, I was just saying that I would rather have a nice boat like your old purple one (ot pipes, injection etc) than the one I have.

Your boat is just as nice, heck just put a set of injectors and headers on it and you're good to go!..:D

[Bigblock]

Rastas

Try Smart Aluminium.http://www.yellowpages.com.au/bi/smart-aluminium-moorooka-qld-3200681.html
They should be able to help you out. The Smart aluminium web site is not working for some reason.

Also to keep the missus happy, you could get some Bassett through transome headers to spice it up.http://www.bassettracing.com/newpage3.htm