Engine Oil Type

[66 Howard]

Hi, I have a '66 Howard with a Chevy 350 in it and I would like to hear some feedback on brand and weight of oil and also brand of oil filter. Any info would be appreciated.:)

[hydroguy]

I use the Wix oil filter with the Brad Penn oil.

[RiverRacer]

Well, this should be interesting,LOL...

Same here Wix and the good ole "GREEN" can't beat it!.. For a heavy duty blown application I think I would go with the Baldwin filter though!..

[gfinishline]

Kendall GT1

[RiverRacer]

Kendall GT1

Good stuff, but not the good GREEN though!..:D

[wagspe208]

Well, according to the tool that was preaching how to maximize operating profit at out last service meetings..."oil is oil." I told him he was an idiot.
Brad Penn is very popular..and excellent. No doubt about it. It may be more difficult to find, though.
I am a valvoline VR1 guy personally. Now, partly because of availability. (I also use a problend addative every other oil change) Partly because I get it for free. If I paid the same for Penn..I would probably run it instead.
If a combination is right...any good oil will work. If a combination is not right, or tuned improperly...you could run "the Hand of God" for lube and it would die.
Wags

[RiverRacer]

Brad Penn is very popular..and excellent. No doubt about it. It may be more difficult to find, though.
Not hard to find, I called them up and they gave me a distributer in my area, they even asked if I wanted to be a distributer!..:D
I am a valvoline VR1 guy personally. Now, partly because of availability. (I also use a problend addative every other oil change)
Now if you used a good oil you wouldn't have to use an additive right!, sorry couldn't resist!..:D:D

[wagspe208]

Now if you used a good oil you wouldn't have to use an additive right!, sorry couldn't resist!..:D:D[/QUOTE]

Well...you have me there. I don't know if I have to use an addative. :confused:
Just always have since I switched to alcohol years ago. Never let me down.
It ain't broke..so I ain't fixin it.
Wags

[RiverRacer]

Well...you have me there. I don't know if I have to use an addative. :confused:
Just always have since I switched to alcohol years ago. Never let me down.
It ain't broke..so I ain't fixin it.
Wags

Just bustin your balls bud,lol. But if you get on the tune up and not bypass all the fuel to the oil pan........... Oops did it again, sorry bout that!. Yeah I know I'm a smartazz, but it's all Brad's fault for rubbing it off on me!..:D

[66 Howard]

Thanks for all the replys, but now I'm just as confused as ever!:confused: I'm a newbie at this! My 350 is a single carb Holley 650; no blower or alcohol, etc. I would like to get something that I could find at Kragen or some other car store. Also, nobody has said anything about oil weight. Please help.:o

[hydroguy]

Then just go over and get some Penzoil 30 wgt.

[RiverRacer]

Well, anything you buy in a store is junk so pick the prettiest bottle:D Weight depends on clearances, oil temp, how hard you run it!..;)

[gfinishline]

So this has all come down to "our own personal rain dances", and the collective answer is WHAT!?!? I feel that "anti foaming agents" are very important because boats run more RPMs. "OUT OF THE BOX" street/generic oils often don't have the ability to stay stable (anti foaming agents) at higher RPMs. "I hate this brand oil VS you love that brand", means nothing when we only have our own personal knowledge on the use of motor oils. Look for "anti foaming agents", and "heat VS break down numbers". Conventional oils tend to cause wear because of "rough molecules" and synthetics offer "uniform molecules" with rounded edges. I'm quoting what I have read, and I must say that I have had very good use (in the past) with old rough oils. (221,000 miles on a turbo 454 gas work truck). "Wave action" within you motor's bearing surfaces (to me) is the most important factor in oil life. Clean oils flow freely and oils that 'carry ash" will WEAR DOWN SURFACES as they flow thru the motor. I do expect (the TV ads are correct) and my use of synthetic oil in our new car will prolong it's life. "Or so I have been told".

[RiverRacer]

And the fact they took just about all the Zinc out of conventional oils makes it even worse!..

[shipchips]

late post, anyone using ZDDplus with a non-roller cam? Or is it all BS?

[socal_wrench]

I use Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil, on all my old stuff ( pre 1985 ) but that is just me, I have always had good luck with it:D

[RiverRacer]

I use Valvoline VR-1 Racing oil, on all my old stuff ( pre 1985 ) but that is just me, I have always had good luck with it:D

Any racing oil has the Zinc and and all the good lubricants, anything on the shelf anymore is junk for any high performance stuff!..

[RiverRacer]

late post, anyone using ZDDplus with a non-roller cam? Or is it all BS?

If you use off the shelf junk you should use it regardless of the cam!..

[socal_wrench]

Got This off The Binder Builitin Message Board

From: ISKY Racing Cams
MOTOR OIL WARNING!!

Important message regarding "break in" protection for all high performance flat tappet and solid lifter camshafts.

........government regulators have mandated as of Jan 04 the complete elimination of the critical anti-wear additive package (zinc/phosphorus) from all "SM" rated (street legal) motor oils to protect catalytic converters.

Isky recommends the use of only the following oils for maximum cam lobe and lifter protection before and after the break in period because they are the only conventional mineral based oils available with generous levels of the zinc/phosphorus additive package.

Brad Penn Penn-Grade 1 ** The very best in our opinion and the only oil refined from 100% PA crude.

Pennzoil "GTP" Racing Oil (Excellent. Do not confuse with regular grade of Pennzoil)

Valvoline Racing Oil (Excellent. Do not confuse with regular grades of Valvoline or Valvoline VR-1)

..................

If you do not use one of the above oils, the next best approach is to supplement other common mineral based oils with EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) available from any GM dealership. .................

Special Note Regarding Synthetic Oils

Please note, Isky does not recommend the use of synthetic oils with any flat tappet camshaft especially during break in. If you must use synthteic oil after break in, there are only two brands we are comfortable recommending. They are Amzoil [sic] (Red) racing Oil and Joe Gibbs Performance Racing Oil. Both contain zinc and phosphorus and will fare well AFTER break in has been successfully completed. Other synthetics, especially those with very low viscosity index numbers (i.e. 0W-15, 5W-20, etc) have very low film strength and are not designed for, nor should they be employed in any flat tappet cam installation.

.....................remember to immediately rev to 2500 RPM and keep it there for the first 15-20 minutes of operation...................

[gfinishline]

How can I go see this message board?

[whaledog11]

http://www.binderbulletin.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=4
search for isky cam and there is a forum on oils.

[gfinishline]

OK I went there, where is the Isky cam stuff?

[Wannabe]

I am going to be the oddball here. If the engine is just a little pump gas mule, stock stuff in a general go out and hit the lake type of boat, then a general oil is O.K. Whatever you find at WalMart. There are pros and cons for each. But if that type of an engine will really know, I don't think so. So why spend twice or more than what you need?
When you start to push cylinder pressures, then you NEED to upgrade. It is not an option. When you start to run big rpms, then you need to upgrade. When you start to really play with bearing and other clearances - again, you need to be very particular. When you start to pound these engines as if they were full on race engines, then you need an upgrade. And when breaking an engine in for the first and second oil change, then you need to research for what type of engine you have and what oil will work best to do so.
In your case; If the engine has been running fine and just needs an oil change- stick with the cheap stuff. If the boat runs real hot, go with a thicker oil. If it runs nice and cool a middle of the road will work. Don't risk using too light of an oil for this application.

[whaledog11]

http://www.binderbulletin.org/forums/showthread.php?t=80079&highlight=isky+cams

[socal_wrench]

http://www.binderbulletin.org/forums/showthread.php?t=80079

Here is the thread Goerge