Solid Drive Shaft

[Flatmvn]

In my set up I am running a solid drive shaft. Bolted to the flywheel is a splined coupler, then the solid drive shaft. At the V-Drive end I have a greek coupler (see pic) it has splines on the input shaft of V-Drive, splines where the two halves of the coupler go together and then splines where the shaft slips into the coupler there is also a safety collar on the shaft. The following question are because I have a vibration and I am trying to determine where it might be coming from.

1. Do any of these splines need some kind of lube on them to keep them from binding?
2. With all the couplers and splines could there be to much movement in the setup?
3. Drag boat use the greek coupler but the shaft is really short, could the length of the drive shaft and all the joints be causing the vibration?

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb16/flatmvn/Rush/DSCN0922.jpg

[gfinishline]

How much end play do you have? What are the attack angles at the motor and V-drive? Side to side angle ?

[FC-Pilot]

Louis, this may not be a cure all, but in the funnycars we have seen some harmonics and noise with these since we use the same setup. One thing we have seen others do (and we plan on doing ourselves) is to put a small amount of silicone sealant in the couplers before putting them together. We have seen it dampen vibrations and harmonics in top alcohol Funnycars and dragsters. I don't know what it might effect in a v-drive setup, but just throwing it our there.

Paul

[Flatmvn]

How much end play do you have? What are the attack angles at the motor and V-drive? Side to side angle ?

The end play is some what adjustable because of the slip collar. I have tried any where from .100 to 1/4" no change.

As for the angles I think everything is straight other wise none of this would slide together. I have never check them because that part was already set up when I bought the boat.

Me an a couple friends went out in it and they felt various points while I drove. There is no vibration at the motor end and as you move closer to the V-drive down the safety tube the vibration gets stronger.

I know the greek coupler is designed for 2* of angle. When you grab the coupler (not running of course) you can move it vertically and horizontal (play in the splines) Could it be that at speed with this movement that things are getting out of balance and causing it.

[RiverRacer]

Louis, you have a vibration at the v-drive because you're using a button on the crank and you're experiencing a whipping effect from the shaft because of the lenght, couplers on both ends will eiliminate that. When I built my Daytona back in 91 I talked to Lenco and they recommended using couplers on both ends!.. I remember back in the 80's some of the SS guys would put a little grease in the couplers to reduce the rattle when not in gear(it is loud)but after a heat the grease was gone, made a big ole mess in the cover, so they quit doing that!..

[Flatmvn]

Louis, you have a vibration at the v-drive because you're using a button on the crank and you're experiencing a whipping effect from the shaft because of the lenght, couplers on both ends will eiliminate that. When I built my Daytona back in 91 I talked to Lenco and they recommended using couplers on both ends!.. I remember back in the 80's some of the SS guys would put a little grease in the couplers to reduce the rattle when not in gear(it is loud)but after a heat the grease was gone, made a big ole mess in the cover, so they quit doing that!..

This is what I was think also. Just wanted some different points of view and to see if I was on the right track. What about removing the coupler at the V-drive end and using a straight splined coupler similar to the one on the prop shaft. Because I have 2 different splines 10 or 12 on the input shaft and 28 or 30 on the drive shaft can this be done or do I need to change one of the shaft splines so that they both have the same splines.
In order to put a coupler at the flywheel how would I do that. I looked at Lencos site ad the don't show anything that would bolt directly to the flywheel.

[Terrible toy]

Louis, for what it's worth, I've used Greek coupler/splined shafts between the trans and rear end on two drag cars. Both used a female coupler at the rear end and male at the transmission end. I keep the clearance pretty tight at about 1/8 inch. B&J suggested I use moly lube on the splines and couplers. So far haven't had any undo wear or problems.

[lebel409]

You guys know a lot more than me, so take this for what it's worth...

Could the vibration be from the V drive moving? I don't see any angled bracing...torque moving the V drive, causing the noise/vibration?

[Flatmvn]

You guys know a lot more than me, so take this for what it's worth...

Could the vibration be from the V drive moving? I don't see any angled bracing...torque moving the V drive, causing the noise/vibration?

I don't think I an getting any flex at the V-drive I have a 1/2" center plate and the angle aluminum pieces that mount it to the stringers are 1/2" and they are bolted to the 6" stringers with three bolts and where the plate bolts to the stinger mounts with 5 bolts on each side and they are placed very wide from top to bottom between 8" of mounting plate.

[lebel409]

It sounds beefy on that axis...just thinking about front to back.

I'm a musician. I've read about string vibrations...obvious or they don't make sound...:D Apparently gun barrels work very much like a string vibrating...most people don't think about the harmonics of their gun barrel, they assume, it's stiff and immobile.

From your photo I only see support around the radius of the case...good support. Even though it's 1/2" thick I bet you can move it a bit forward with your hand...now think about 600 horses...

Again, maybe nothing to do with it.

[Flatmvn]

It sounds beefy on that axis...just thinking about front to back.

I'm a musician. I've read about string vibrations...obvious or they don't make sound...:D Apparently gun barrels work very much like a string vibrating...most people don't think about the harmonics of their gun barrel, they assume, it's stiff and immobile.

From your photo I only see support around the radius of the case...good support. Even though it's 1/2" thick I bet you can move it a bit forward with your hand...now think about 600 horses...

Again, maybe nothing to do with it.


Here are some pics of the V-drive out on the floor and another of the mounting in the boat. Due to the width of the center plate and the full width of the mounts on the stringer it actually doubles the thickness of the center plate to 1" and as for moving the V-drive with your hands not a chance, It doesn't even move when you pick the whole boat up off the trailer from it. Less engine of course.
Your thought process is good, Just not applicable in this situation.

http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb16/flatmvn/Rush/DSCN0904.jpg


http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb16/flatmvn/Rush/DSC_0010.jpg

[RiverRacer]

This is what I was think also. Just wanted some different points of view and to see if I was on the right track. What about removing the coupler at the V-drive end and using a straight splined coupler similar to the one on the prop shaft. Because I have 2 different splines 10 or 12 on the input shaft and 28 or 30 on the drive shaft can this be done or do I need to change one of the shaft splines so that they both have the same splines.
In order to put a coupler at the flywheel how would I do that. I looked at Lencos site ad the don't show anything that would bolt directly to the flywheel.

Louis, if you change to a coupler like the prop shaft it will be keyed not splined, you would have to go to a Casale deal like I had on mine, you would have to change the top shaft in the v-drive and get a PTO for the flywheel and a shaft!. But how bad is it, I never felt or heard anything when I rode in it, or did you change anything since???. If you wanted to add a coupler to the back you would use their adapter for inline motor setup(not shown on their site) and make a PTO for the flywheel, you would have to shorten your shaft also!.... But unless it's shaking things apart I wouldn't worry about it, does it get worse the harder you run it???..

[RiverRacer]

It sounds beefy on that axis...just thinking about front to back.

I'm a musician. I've read about string vibrations...obvious or they don't make sound...:D Apparently gun barrels work very much like a string vibrating...most people don't think about the harmonics of their gun barrel, they assume, it's stiff and immobile.

From your photo I only see support around the radius of the case...good support. Even though it's 1/2" thick I bet you can move it a bit forward with your hand...now think about 600 horses...

Again, maybe nothing to do with it.

Garonteed the v-drive is not moving, and besides the push is on the prop shaft not the top shaft!. Move by hand, you are kiddin right, LOL...:D

[Flatmvn]

No I have not changed anything since then it is the same as when we ran it in Parker.
I mentioned it when we were running but you said that you couldn't feel it because there weren't any pedals to put your feet on, plus with all the fun we were having out running Brad we wern't really paying attention. It seems worse to me because my feet are on the pedals. Yes the vibration gets stronger the more RPM'S you spin, up to about 4-4500 it is minimal but once you start going higher and when you get to 6000 to me it feels like alot of vibration.

[BradP]

No I have not changed anything since then it is the same as when we ran it in Parker.
I mentioned it when we were running but you said that you couldn't feel it because there weren't any pedals to put your feet on, plus with all the fun we were having out running Brad we wern't really paying attention. It seems worse to me because my feet are on the pedals. Yes the vibration gets stronger the more RPM'S you spin, up to about 4-4500 it is minimal but once you start going higher and when you get to 6000 to me it feels like alot of vibration.


Louis, Louis, Louis,

You're not thinking this through.

Get a gilrfriend, chicks dig anything that vibrates.

Problem solved.:D:D

[Flatmvn]

Damn I new there was something that was missing.

That is a mighty expensive fix to the situation though, I think we can come up with a cheaper solution than that.

[RiverRacer]

Damn I new there was something that was missing.

That is a mighty expensive fix to the situation though, I think we can come up with a cheaper solution than that.

Yeah, a whole new boat could cheaper!LOL..:D

[RiverRacer]

No I have not changed anything since then it is the same as when we ran it in Parker.
I mentioned it when we were running but you said that you couldn't feel it because there weren't any pedals to put your feet on, plus with all the fun we were having out running Brad we wern't really paying attention. It seems worse to me because my feet are on the pedals. Yes the vibration gets stronger the more RPM'S you spin, up to about 4-4500 it is minimal but once you start going higher and when you get to 6000 to me it feels like alot of vibration.

Now that you mention it I remember something about that, probably a good idea to fix that then, a vibration like that can wear things out!..

[BradP]

Damn I new there was something that was missing.

That is a mighty expensive fix to the situation though, I think we can come up with a cheaper solution than that.

No, a REAL girlfriend, not the ones your used too.

Putting dollar bills in some chicks g-string doesn't make her your girlfriend.:eek::p:D:D

[hm66Howard]

No, a REAL girlfriend, not the ones your used too.

Putting dollar bills in some chicks g-string doesn't make her your girlfriend.:eekWell, it does for a little while. 'Till you run out of dollar bills!:D:D:

[Flatmvn]

Well, it does for a little while. 'Till you run out of dollar bills!:D:D:

Not to mention the dollar bill ones are are cheaper than the steady type. The steady type usually require $100 dollar bills in their G-string and you don't get any return. I think I will stick to throwing $1 bills and $100 bills at my boat, at least with it when I want do drive it hard it doesn't complain.:D:D

[SnoC653]

Not to mention the dollar bill ones are are cheaper than the steady type. The steady type usually require $100 dollar bills in their G-string and you don't get any return. I think I will stick to throwing $1 bills and $100 bills at my boat, at least with it when I want do drive it hard it doesn't complain.:D:D

This could be a whole new thread "why are boats better than women". Your boat doesn't complain if you let someone else take her out and put her through her paces either (polite way of saying take her out and nail it):eek::D

[BradP]

Not to mention the dollar bill ones are are cheaper than the steady type. The steady type usually require $100 dollar bills in their G-string and you don't get any return. I think I will stick to throwing $1 bills and $100 bills at my boat, at least with it when I want do drive it hard it doesn't complain.:D:D

Oh I don't know, tell her you have a solid, race approved drive shaft with a vibrating attachment and you might get paid to give boat rides.:eek::D

[Flatmvn]

This could be a whole new thread "why are boats better than women". Your boat doesn't complain if you let someone else take her out and put her through her paces either (polite way of saying take her out and nail it)

Well why didn't you start one. It is amazing how much high jacking goes on around here. You ask about a timing cover and the next thing you know your spending $$$ on fuel injection, and then you ask about your drive shaft vibration and the next thing you know you are discussing strippers and G-strings.;):D

You know I am starting to see a pattern developing here. Each time there is a high jacking there seems to be one person at the root of the problem, not to mention his name but his initials are Brad P.:D

Anyways it is all good that is what makes this site such a great place.:D

[FC-Pilot]

You know I am starting to see a pattern developing here. Each time there is a high jacking there seems to be one person at the root of the problem, not to mention his name but his initials are P. Miller. :D


Thanks Louis. I try hard, but was not sure I would get the credit I deserved.

Well I am out of here. I will see some of you guys at Irvine.

Paul