View Full Version : Starting Delam Fix
Mr72Sanger1710
06-01-2008, 06:17 AM
Ok So I started to remove the delaminating glass from the floor and stringers according to the other thread Epoxy to resin is ok but no resin to epoxy is that right ? Couple other questions , the stringers seem to be clear vertical grain redwood ? woulkd that be right? , the stringers seem to be ok tiny rot where holes were, maybe into the wood 1/8-3/16" can I just mix an epoxy and powder to a paste and plug them first? or do I need to replace them? then onto the floor only spot that seems to be in bad shap is where the gas tanks mounted to the floor, About one third of the wood is delaminated maybe half max can that be patched or need to replace? and Finally can I laminate a wood skin of some type to these plywood floors if I sand them to clean them up? I am planning on sanding the Stringers also would that be right I will try to post some pics Thanks Rob
Mr72Sanger1710
06-01-2008, 06:33 AM
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Lets see if this works
Mr72Sanger1710
06-01-2008, 06:38 AM
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couple more
chrisandyoli
06-01-2008, 03:23 PM
..your job is HOT!..keep her dry and don't give up on this classic!..Thoroughbred Baby!..Thoroughbred!
RiverRacer
06-02-2008, 04:36 AM
If the stringers are solid throughout, just drill all the holes out to the next size to clean them out and use dowels to plug up the holes, cut them a hair short so you can glass over them with cloth and finish off, this way they'll be like new and you can start from scratch and not worry about drilling part ways into a hole!...
Mr72Sanger1710
06-02-2008, 05:28 AM
Oh, Ok I didnt even think about Dowels Thanks Rob
RiverRacer
06-02-2008, 05:36 AM
Oh, Ok I didnt even think about Dowels Thanks Rob
Ya learn something new every day huh, I know I do!..:D
hydroguy
06-02-2008, 05:42 AM
Don't use Oak dowels, you may thing they are better because they are hardwood but that is not the case. Oak is very intolerant of any water and will swell and break the surrounding area if they get wet. Oak swells in the width which is the way the dowels are cut and shrinks in the length. Any dowel you get will be end grain which means they are cut the length of the log (simple that way). If you want to make them correctly get a length of the same material and cut your dowels from that with a hole saw and epoxy them in. This is nit picking and probably won't amount to diddly but it gives me something to do. :eek:
RiverRacer
06-02-2008, 05:51 AM
Dowels from Home Dump are the $hit!..:D
poncho
06-02-2008, 11:29 AM
Dowels from Home Dump are the $hit!..:D
Thats what i used is this okay?
RiverRacer
06-02-2008, 04:06 PM
Thats what i used is this okay?
Yep that's all I use, along with some Epoxy or Marine-Tex whichever is laying around!.:D
hm66Howard
06-03-2008, 07:15 AM
Ok So I started to remove the delaminating glass from the floor and stringers according to the other thread Epoxy to resin is ok but no resin to epoxy is that right ? Couple other questions , the stringers seem to be clear vertical grain redwood ? woulkd that be right? , the stringers seem to be ok tiny rot where holes were, maybe into the wood 1/8-3/16" can I just mix an epoxy and powder to a paste and plug them first? or do I need to replace them? then onto the floor only spot that seems to be in bad shap is where the gas tanks mounted to the floor, About one third of the wood is delaminated maybe half max can that be patched or need to replace? and Finally can I laminate a wood skin of some type to these plywood floors if I sand them to clean them up? I am planning on sanding the Stringers also would that be right I will try to post some pics Thanks RobI feel your pain (and itch). Stick with it. :)
RiverRacer
06-03-2008, 05:51 PM
Nice, you did a good job!...:cool:
http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/attachment.php?attachmentid=445&d=1212473570
FC-Pilot
06-03-2008, 06:31 PM
That does look great!
Paul
shopteacher
06-04-2008, 03:29 AM
I have always cut my own plugs, you can get a plug cutter set for about $10 at most hardware stores. Then you can cut them out of the same wood and have the grain running across the width of the plug insted of the length. No problems with swelling or shrinking and they match.
RiverRacer
06-04-2008, 03:39 AM
I have always cut my own plugs, you can get a plug cutter set for about $10 at most hardware stores. Then you can cut them out of the same wood and have the grain running across the width of the plug insted of the length. No problems with swelling or shrinking and they match.
How long a plugs can you cut with that???..
hydroguy
06-04-2008, 03:58 AM
Depends on the quality of plug cutter you get Art. The Milwaukie is nice and with mine I could probably cut a 1 in. plug 3 inches long. You would need to cut one side and then from the other. this is using the plug cutter with the drill bit thru the center. If you don't use the drill plug probably 1 1/2 in. at best. There is a company called the Woodworker that carries ALL kinds of stuff like that. There is one here in Eugene and they may be on line as well.
RiverRacer
06-04-2008, 04:40 AM
Depends on the quality of plug cutter you get Art. The Milwaukie is nice and with mine I could probably cut a 1 in. plug 3 inches long. You would need to cut one side and then from the other. this is using the plug cutter with the drill bit thru the center. If you don't use the drill plug probably 1 1/2 in. at best. There is a company called the Woodworker that carries ALL kinds of stuff like that. There is one here in Eugene and they may be on line as well.
Ok that's what I kinda thought, so you cut a plug from both ends with a pilot drill and then you end up with a hole in the center, now that has to be plugged up right, and if you go from both ends does it come out perfect to fit tight in a hole??. Can you make 3/8"-1/2" say 2" long plugs???..
Mr72Sanger1710
06-04-2008, 06:53 AM
I feel your pain (and itch). Stick with it. :)
VERY !!!!!! NICE!!! I guess there is hope did you just sand and then reglass? She looks Great!!! Rob
64bezer
06-04-2008, 07:16 AM
Hey guys,
As a cabinet maker, I have to chime in on this one. There's a good woodworking company called Lee Valley (www.leevalley.com) that makes good tools. They have a line of dowel and tenon cutters
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=52401&cat=1,180,42288 that would allow you to make a dowel of really unlimited length. Also check out the dowel, plug, and tenon cutter.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=42292&cat=1,180,42288 They will cut plugs in 3/8" to 3" diameters up to 2"long. Might be just what you need.
-Rob
RiverRacer
06-04-2008, 04:19 PM
I like this deal!..:cool:
http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/attachment.php?attachmentid=448&stc=1&d=1212592728
shopteacher
06-04-2008, 05:01 PM
I use a plug cutter without a center drill so you don't have to fill another hole. If you make a simple jig that will index the wood correctly you can cut plugs up to 2 3/4" real easy. Drill as deep as you can from one side flip the wood over in the jig and drill back from the other side. That tool you have pictured RR is good but them you are cutting the plug with the grain running lengthwise.
Dave
Roaddogg 4040
06-07-2008, 12:56 AM
Art's deal is good for making a strong dowel but as Shopteacher says, you are going the wrong way on the grain for a plug/bung.
Steve
Stickman
06-07-2008, 01:56 AM
In 1975, we restored a 1968 Jones Starfire which had swiss cheese stringers because of all the different engines that had been used in the boat. We used 30 minute epoxy and maple dowels. This boat is still around running nostalgia flatbottom in Spokane. I believe that sealing out the moisture is the most important thing; grain direction is not important. This ain't cabinetmaking.
Mr72Sanger1710
06-07-2008, 02:52 AM
First of All THANK YOU!! for the advice on the stringer repair, next question is there any reason other than price to NOT use carbon fiber to repair the floor?found a fair deal on some cloth and it will be less expensive than the wood veneer idea that I had. Thanks Rob
Mr72Sanger1710
06-08-2008, 05:23 AM
worked all day on grinding the Floor I think I have the easy parts done have to get in the tight spots now here is some pics feel free to let me know if im doing anything wrong Thanks Rob
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Mr72Sanger1710
06-08-2008, 06:02 AM
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The gas tank areas were in pretty bad shape, Also the Water Pickups will need new ones as the area that they go through the floor is slightly worn. the part that is really wierd to me is the big hole next to the stringer it would appear that it never got laminated from the get go. I will talk to supply house monday as to recomendation as to what to use to fix . but am listening if anyone has suggestions Thanks Rob
Roaddogg 4040
06-09-2008, 02:22 AM
All that I can say is glad it is you doing all that grinding. You are doing a great job. Keep it up...
Steve
Mr72Sanger1710
06-18-2008, 06:55 AM
New Pics !! Starting the repair, this is much funner to work with :)
Hmmm not sure funner is a word? Anyway!!
RiverRacer
06-19-2008, 03:11 AM
That tool you have pictured RR is good but them you are cutting the plug with the grain running lengthwise.
Dave
So what, all you're doing is plugging up holes that will be covered who cares you'll never see it, and there is no strength factor there!..:D
RiverRacer
06-19-2008, 03:15 AM
We used 30 minute epoxy and maple dowels.
That's all you need, I've plugged holes and drilled half and half and you didn't know the wether there was a plug there or not!..
RiverRacer
06-19-2008, 03:21 AM
worked all day on grinding the Floor I think I have the easy parts done have to get in the tight spots now here is some pics feel free to let me know if im doing anything wrong Thanks Rob
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You're doing a great job keep it up, looks almost like my GN when I got it!...
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