Bushing for shaft log seal

[Flying-V]

Hi guys , I have to replace a worn bushing in my shaft log seal housing. I have seen two types , the fibre type and the brass with rubber inside it . I have a one inch shaft , is one type any better than the other ? I know the brass/rubber piece is lots more money , is it any better than the fibre ones?

[RiverRacer]

What does it have now, probably a fiber one so put the same back in, the rubber ones are not for high rpm's!. The fiber bushings are water lubricated so you need to dump your water from the v-drive into the shaft log!..

[Flying-V]

Right now it has a fibre bushing that is badly worn out . The water from the Casale drive is being sent out of the boat on the drivers side just behind the drivers seat. The shaft log seal is the same one as the Rex Marine number 390 189 . It is a double seal unit with a water dump.

[Flying-V]

Since I have this thing apart right now , I am wondering if there is a better shaft log seal housing I should buy ? Rex Marine is showing 5 different types for a 1 inch shaft . The piece numbered 390 188 is described as a long housing , it looks like it would have a longer shaft bearing in it which would distribute the wear over a larger area ( but no water dump , how is it lubricated without water from the casale ) . I imagine it would have a fibre bushing too ? Does anyone think that one of these shaft log seals is any better than the others ( there are also the packing types verses the rubber seal types ).

[AquaCraft]

Since I have this thing apart right now , I am wondering if there is a better shaft log seal housing I should buy ? Rex Marine is showing 5 different types for a 1 inch shaft . The piece numbered 390 188 is described as a long housing , it looks like it would have a longer shaft bearing in it which would distribute the wear over a larger area ( but no water dump , how is it lubricated without water from the casale ) . I imagine it would have a fibre bushing too ? Does anyone think that one of these shaft log seals is any better than the others ( there are also the packing types verses the rubber seal types ).

My favorite is Glenwood's water cooled, double sealed, chromed bronze unit. How long a unit you use is usually dictated by how much room you have. Double seal means two chances to stop leaks instead of one. Packing type uses flax rope; it's adjustable but is typically for low RPM and they are set-up to "drip" while running to keep them cool. This works O.K. in a tuna boat but is not usually what you want in a flat. Double seals and water cooled is what you want for your flat, in my opinion. 'Make sure to check your prop shaft for wear; all the seals in the world won't compensate for a scored shaft.

http://www.glenwoodmarine.net/Catalog/SHAFT%20LOG.pdf

[058]

Never seen a seal housing for the shaft log that was rubber lined, I thought they were all bronze. Are you referring to the prop strut busings? The type of strut bushing you use depends on the type of water you boat in. Clear water use the fiber bushing, high silt/brackish water use the rubber. The rubber will imbed/cushion the particles to reduce shaft wear as much as possible.

[AquaCraft]

You are right 058; I think Flying-V was looking at prop strut bushing material when looking to rebuild his seal housing. Thanks for the education on the rubber/brass strut bushings; I never undestood the design of that bushing type and now it makes sense!!

[Terrible toy]

The only kind of shaft log seal I've ever used is the short single seal type. Give them a little shot of grease every now and then... worked on blown drag boats to day cruisers for me.

[Flying-V]

Thanks for the feed back everyone , much appreciated. The shaft log seal I am refering to is in Rex Marine's website on page 135 , it is part number 390 189 , This is what the catalog says , quote " Double Seal assembly for 1" shaft with grease fitting and water dump - has fibre bushing inside - raw brass finish " end of quote . Judging by the picture that is exactly the unit I have , except mine is chromed. Inside of mine is a slotted fibre bushing 1 1/2 inches long . So anyway I have to replace mine and I was wondering whether there was something better than the fibre type bushing . After reading things so far , I am inclined to put a fibre one back in .

[Flying-V]

Yes the bushing inside mine is the same slotted fibre bushing as a prop strut bushing . It's the same propshaft seal housing Aquacraft is showing and talking about . Aquacraft is all of your Casale's water output going out through your propshaft seal housing ?

058...... thanks for the input , I can see where the rubber one could be better in bad water , the water I run in is clear , so I don't need a rubber bushing for silty or brackish water.

Terrible Toy ......is your seal housing being fed water ? Maybe if I use your type of shaft seal housing I won't have to change my Casale plumbing ( my Casale never runs hot ).

River Racer ,......... If I put a fibre bushing back into this seal housing, should I send all of the water output from the Casale drive to it ? The input fitting looks awfully small ( hate to loose my cool running Casale ) . Or would I be better to use a T-fitting in the present lines and send some water to the seal housing and the rest out through the "thru hull" which is now being used on the drivers side ? ( there was no water going to it )

Thanks again everyone

[dry]

Just an FYI,
My shaft log seal is water fed from the caselle--water from the lake pick up in the bottom of the boat into and thru the caselle out the caselle into the shaft log seal and dumps out the shaft log to the lake. The shaft log seal has a grease zert to pack it with grease...............

[AquaCraft]

Flying-V,

There is more than one way to set-up cooling lines to your shaft seal. My boat picks-up water through one of the turning fins, sends it through the v-drive and out through the shaft seal.

River Racer is one of our leaders and he will tell you that it does not take much water flow (or any) to keep most v-drive's cool, thus the small diameter water lines you noticed.

I will tell you that if you are concerned about water flow to your v-drive and shaft-seal; you will do well to make sure the water passages are clear from pick-up to discharge.

I just serviced a square top Casale and the water cavity was totally obstructed with 'nasty calcium like "goo"; no water was coming or going anywhere.

If a boat sits with lake water in the v-drive for an extended period of time, the water passages inside the unit can end up looking like the inside of dear old grannies tea pot.

Like Terrible Toy said, lots of boats have run for years with a single seal and no cooling line just fine.

Double seals and water cooling are probably over-kill on a ski boat shaft log seal, but it's cheap extra insurance and it looks "full-race".

'Put your fiber bushing in there, replace the seal(s), marine grease-it and hit the water.

Aqua-Craft

[RiverRacer]

Never seen a seal housing for the shaft log that was rubber lined, I thought they were all bronze. Are you referring to the prop strut busings? The type of strut bushing you use depends on the type of water you boat in. Clear water use the fiber bushing, high silt/brackish water use the rubber. The rubber will imbed/cushion the particles to reduce shaft wear as much as possible.

Bob, I have one with a fiber bushing it's not a bronze log though, came on my Raysoncraft!..

[RiverRacer]

River Racer ,......... If I put a fibre bushing back into this seal housing, should I send all of the water output from the Casale drive to it ? The input fitting looks awfully small ( hate to loose my cool running Casale ) . Or would I be better to use a T-fitting in the present lines and send some water to the seal housing and the rest out through the "thru hull" which is now being used on the drivers side ? ( there was no water going to it )

Thanks again everyone

If you had no water going to it that's why it wiped out, you don't need much so you could T off the line to the log, you don't want to put full flow there or you'll build up pressure in the v-drive and it could lead up to a leak!. Or you could just get a bronze log and not worry about water at all!..

[RiverRacer]

The only kind of shaft log seal I've ever used is the short single seal type. Give them a little shot of grease every now and then... worked on blown drag boats to day cruisers for me.

Hey Bill, I built my Daytona in 91 and I put a single seal bronze log, and unless the new owner changed it, it still has the original seal. same with the rudder and cav plate rod!..

[Terrible toy]

Hey Bill, I built my Daytona in 91 and I put a single seal bronze log, and unless the new owner changed it, it still has the original seal. same with the rudder and cav plate rod!..

I've had real good luck with them and that's what came with the Hondos, Coles and Kurtis Krafts I've been in.

However, I have to admit that I've gotten a little nervous about passing out advice here. I thought I knew a lot about v drive boats but after being here for a while it's apparent a lot of you could be teaching advanced fast boat 101.

[RiverRacer]

I've had real good luck with them and that's what came with the Hondos, Coles and Kurtis Krafts I've been in.

However, I have to admit that I've gotten a little nervous about passing out advice here. I thought I knew a lot about v drive boats but after being here for a while it's apparent a lot of you could be teaching advanced fast boat 101.

Bill, as long as you been in this $hit you have to have a ton of knowledge too!.:D. Here's a tip on how to save wear and tear on a stuffing box and seal( I really shouldn't be saying this)although they are self aligning that short rubber hose don't flex all that well, so when you put the stuffing box on leave the hose loose on the shaft log, slide the shaft up into the coupler, now tighten the hose on the log and now you don't have any binding or tension on the stuffing box and it won't wear out for a long time!..

[058]

Bob, I have one with a fiber bushing it's not a bronze log though, came on my Raysoncraft!..
Art, I have repaired seal housings using fiber bushing cut to length, just chuck 'em up in the lathe and bore to the correct dia. and press the bushing in...waaa-laaa....a good seal housing that once was junk.

[Terrible toy]

Terrible Toy ......is your seal housing being fed water ? Maybe if I use your type of shaft seal housing I won't have to change my Casale plumbing ( my Casale never runs hot ).

Nope, no water to it. Part number 242 126 on the sheet you posted. The rubber seal is similar to a typical front crank oil seal. I figure those things see lots of heat and run forever, so why not.:)

[RiverRacer]

Art, I have repaired seal housings using fiber bushing cut to length, just chuck 'em up in the lathe and bore to the correct dia. and press the bushing in...waaa-laaa....a good seal housing that once was junk.

Done the same Bob, put sleeves in rudder stuffing boxes too, saved quite a few from the trash!..

[Flying-V]

Thanks everyone for all the information . I think I am going to order a new shaft log seal housing with the single seal ( the type spoken about , part number 242 126 in Rex Marine ) . For $ 35 I can afford to get one of those and also I am going to buy the replacement fibre strut bushing ( $12 won't break the bank account ) and fix up my water cooled unit . Then I'll have saved the double seal water cooled unit and have two different types of shaft log seals on hand . I'd like to try the single seal type and see what I think .

Thanks again everyone for everything , I learned a lot again and now I know what I am going to do .

[shooter2]

Done the same Bob, put sleeves in rudder stuffing boxes too, saved quite a few from the trash!..

Yep saved a few that way as well. Also sleeved my share of up and down pedal assemblies.

Brian

[RiverRacer]

Yep saved a few that way as well. Also sleeved my share of up and down pedal assemblies.

Brian

Yeah they get thrashed out quite a bit with the long arm on the down, never could figure why they made them like that!..:confused: