Strut Bushing Question And Help????

[GR8WHITE]

well first off i have to give a big thanks to brad for helping me split the case on my v-drive last weekend, you guys on this site are awesome, brad by the way i owe you more than one beer! :D well i got under my boat yesterday and checked to see how much play i have in the prop shaft and it moves a little bit maybe about a 1/16 of an inch, should i replace the bushing that slides in there (the one that looks like a toilet roll), and second where can i get the bushing from? and last brad noticed that someone put a huge washer between the prop and and nut and the washer is about 1/4 of an inch bigger all around than the end of the prop, can i get a washer at a boat shop or can i go to the hardware shop and just find another washer with the correct outer diameter??

[Flatmvn]

If you have any slack at all in your prop shaft bushings they need to be replaced. The prop shaft should fit snugly but turn freely, with your hand.

you can get new bushings from Rex Marine or Burgeron If you have a marine shop in town you might be able to find them there. You will need to know thw outside & inside diamiter. The bushings usually come in one piece and you have to cut them in half to make 2 pieces depending on the length of you old bushings you might have to buy two and cut them to length.

As for your washer issue that is probably a standard size flat washer. You can get a Machine washer and replace it make sure you get a good quality stainless one though. If you call Rex Marine ask them about the waser and maybe a new prop nut while you are there.

Louis

[Flatmvn]

Here is a link for the prop nut and kit but I don't see a washer.

http://www.rexmar.com/page136.html

[GR8WHITE]

I remember replacing one on our mastercraft pro star 190, and i helped my dad but i was like 14 when we did it and i remember cutting it in two pieces and putting one in each end. so what is the easiest way to get the old bushing out and should i just measure the outside of the prop shaft and the inner diameter of the strut hole with a tape measure?

[GR8WHITE]

As for your washer issue that is probably a standard size flat washer. You can get a Machine washer and replace it make sure you get a good quality stainless one though. If you call Rex Marine ask them about the waser and maybe a new prop nut while you are there.

Louis[/QUOTE]

are you talking about having a washer machined?? and also if i tighten down the nut and there is still space between the nut and prop i also need to find a washer the same thickness to take up the space correct? :confused:

btw: off hand do you know what size that nut is? i only have american socket sizes up to 7/8 and that is too small.

[waimo]

if you check the bush after its had a run in your lake it may be just right.as some swell when wet.

[Flatmvn]

The prop nut is either 1 1/16 or 1 1/8.

A machine washer is a flat washer that has the same inside diamiter and a smaller outside diamiter than a standard flat washer. You don't need to have one machined. I get mine at our local tractor parts store.

You might want to take your nut of first and see if you really need the washer. If there is enough threads to tighten the prop without the washer then there is no need for it.

Louis

[GR8WHITE]

The prop nut is either 1 1/16 or 1 1/8.

A machine washer is a flat washer that has the same inside diamiter and a smaller outside diamiter than a standard flat washer. You don't need to have one machined. I get mine at our local tractor parts store.

You might want to take your nut of first and see if you really need the washer. If there is enough threads to tighten the prop without the washer then there is no need for it.

Louis

dont know of any tractor supply places by me, but i will have to break out the good ol yellow pages ha ha!!!:rolleyes:

[BradP]

I think that washer was to take up the gap from prop to nut.
Make sure you check that the prop doesn't ride up on the key when you get that sorted too.

[BradP]

No sweat on the help Justin.:D

Justin is stand up BTW he actually offered to pay for a little help.:D:D

[tunnelrunner]

I remember replacing one on our mastercraft pro star 190, and i helped my dad but i was like 14 when we did it and i remember cutting it in two pieces and putting one in each end. so what is the easiest way to get the old bushing out and should i just measure the outside of the prop shaft and the inner diameter of the strut hole with a tape measure?

I dont know about anyone else, but this is how we do strut bushes.

Step 1. Get hold of a set of verniers and measure inside and outside diameters of your existing bush. Sizes are generally one of a small standard range so theyre easy to source just at just about any marine store.

Step 2. Remove the old bush/es using a hacksaw blade to saw through the old bush. Gently use the tang of a screwdriver to pry the bush away from its housing. Once you get it started it will come out easy. Take special care if you are running bronze underwater gear.

Step 3. Once the bush is out, make sure the housing is clean and clear of corrosion and debris. A little wet-and-dry sorts most things out.

Step 4. Time to put your new bush/es back in. I've been told that the only lubricant to be used is good old H2O ( someone will no doubt confirm). Make yourself a puller with a length of 3/16" ( or bigger) threaded rod, 2 pieces of flat timber and a couple of washers and nuts. Line up the bushes, thread the rod through the centre, a piece of timber etc each side and start gently tightening the nuts. As you go , make sure everything is sitting square and continue until you are all the way in. Easy.;)

[GR8WHITE]

I dont know about anyone else, but this is how we do strut bushes.

Step 1. Get hold of a set of verniers and measure inside and outside diameters of your existing bush. Sizes are generally one of a small standard range so theyre easy to source just at just about any marine store.

Step 2. Remove the old bush/es using a hacksaw blade to saw through the old bush. Gently use the tang of a screwdriver to pry the bush away from its housing. Once you get it started it will come out easy. Take special care if you are running bronze underwater gear.

Step 3. Once the bush is out, make sure the housing is clean and clear of corrosion and debris. A little wet-and-dry sorts most things out.

Step 4. Time to put your new bush/es back in. I've been told that the only lubricant to be used is good old H2O ( someone will no doubt confirm). Make yourself a puller with a length of 3/16" ( or bigger) threaded rod, 2 pieces of flat timber and a couple of washers and nuts. Line up the bushes, thread the rod through the centre, a piece of timber etc each side and start gently tightening the nuts. As you go , make sure everything is sitting square and continue until you are all the way in. Easy.;)

:confused:call me a dumb newb but what the hell are verniers, are they a kind of
caliper? :confused:
and thanks for the help that sounds alot easier than what i had running in my brain on how to remove and install that bushing. and brad you are the awesome guy for all the help and the gaskets.

[tunnelrunner]

He he, yeah. Vernier calipers ie measuring device... better than a tape measure, not as good as a micrometer...lol :D:D

[BradP]

Don't forget to mark the bushing length wise before cutting it in half, they are bored off center and must be installed inline.

[tunnelrunner]

Don't forget to mark the bushing length wise before cutting it in half, they are bored off center and must be installed inline.

Forgot about that!:o

[GR8WHITE]

Don't forget to mark the bushing length wise before cutting it in half, they are bored off center and must be installed inline.

so mark a line down the middle and then cut it in half because the center bore through the center is not straight and off center. so is there a front and a back then to the bushing if it is not bored straight, or the only thing that matters is making sure the lines still line up no matter which way you put it in?

[tunnelrunner]

so mark a line down the middle and then cut it in half because the center bore through the center is not straight and off center. so is there a front and a back then to the bushing if it is not bored straight, or the only thing that matters is making sure the lines still line up no matter which way you put it in?

If the bush you buy is bored off-center ( not all of them are), install the thicker edge to the bottom. There is no front or back. Mark the bush with a line lengthwise, then mark your housing lengthwise. Line up carefully as you install. Its fairly common here in Aus to buy a length of bushing long enough to go right through the housing, so there is no need to cut it. I'm not sure if there are any problems with doing it this way. Most of the ones I've replaced have been on direct-drive boats, so there might be a difference for some reason. Doubtless someone will enlighten us!

[RiverRacer]

so mark a line down the middle and then cut it in half because the center bore through the center is not straight and off center. so is there a front and a back then to the bushing if it is not bored straight, or the only thing that matters is making sure the lines still line up no matter which way you put it in?

Think about this, if it's off center and you cut it in half and turn one around what does that do, puts the offset on the opposite side right, defeating the purpose of using a line, cut it and put it the same way with the lines matching!..

[RiverRacer]

If the bush you buy is bored off-center ( not all of them are), install the thicker edge to the bottom. There is no front or back. Mark the bush with a line lengthwise, then mark your housing lengthwise. Line up carefully as you install. Its fairly common here in Aus to buy a length of bushing long enough to go right through the housing, so there is no need to cut it. I'm not sure if there are any problems with doing it this way. Most of the ones I've replaced have been on direct-drive boats, so there might be a difference for some reason. Doubtless someone will enlighten us!

Not really a problem but it's just more bushing to keep lubricated, but at lower rpm's shouldn't be a problem. Must be a pain in the arse to get them out though!.:D

[tunnelrunner]

Not really a problem but it's just more bushing to keep lubricated, but at lower rpm's shouldn't be a problem. Must be a pain in the arse to get them out though!.:D

yeah, they can be.... especially in bronze struts where you can't "get a bigger hammer"..lol

[RiverRacer]

yeah, they can be.... especially in bronze struts where you can't "get a bigger hammer"..lol

I hear that, usually take a hack saw blade and split them but it with a bronze strut it would be easy to cut into the strut and not realize it!..

[tunnelrunner]

I hear that, usually take a hack saw blade and split them but it with a bronze strut it would be easy to cut into the strut and not realize it!..

Yep... slowly, slowly....:D

[RiverRacer]

Yep... slowly, slowly....:D

Yes indeed, LOL..:D

[GR8WHITE]

any tips to getting the prop off the shaft if its being stubborn, because the prop looks a little rusty? should i shoot it with some pb blaster for a couple of days before i can get to it this weekend. and is there a way to clean the prop up or should i just leave it? :confused:

[SPUN1]

Talk to it nicely, it should just fall off.:D

[BradP]

any tips to getting the prop off the shaft if its being stubborn, because the prop looks a little rusty? should i shoot it with some pb blaster for a couple of days before i can get to it this weekend. and is there a way to clean the prop up or should i just leave it? :confused:


What kind of prop puller do you have?


Put the puller on it with tension, not too much, and heat the prop with a propane torch. If that doesn't work squirt it with a penetrating oil and leave the puller on overnight, heat it with the torch again in the morning.
Are you tapping the puller with a hammer once it's tight?

[GR8WHITE]

What kind of prop puller do you have?


Put the puller on it with tension, not too much, and heat the prop with a propane torch. If that doesn't work squirt it with a penetrating oil and leave the puller on overnight, heat it with the torch again in the morning.
Are you tapping the puller with a hammer once it's tight?

I dont have a puller yet brad, i need to buy one this weekend somewhere. but i want to replace the bushing in the strut but im guessing i should take the prop off too while im at it. :confused:

[BradP]

I dont have a puller yet brad, i need to buy one this weekend somewhere. but i want to replace the bushing in the strut but im guessing i should take the prop off too while im at it. :confused:

You can borrow mine but you'd have to wait until next weekend.
If you buy one get it from REX, the big one.

[RiverRacer]

Sounds like someone was lazy and never took the prop off, you need to get it off. It's probably rusted on, be very careful with heat don't take much to change the heat treating. Should be able to snug up the puller and give it a whack and it should come off, if not pull the shaft off and make a slide hammer deal out of steel round stock, one whack and it's off!. Can't understand why anybody would leave a $600 prop on all the time and let it rust away, not to mention getting it beat up on the road towing, sheezz it only takes 5 minutes at the most to pop it off!...:rolleyes:

[GR8WHITE]

Sounds like someone was lazy and never took the prop off, you need to get it off. It's probably rusted on, be very careful with heat don't take much to change the heat treating. Should be able to snug up the puller and give it a whack and it should come off, if not pull the shaft off and make a slide hammer deal out of steel round stock, one whack and it's off!. Can't understand why anybody would leave a $600 prop on all the time and let it rust away, not to mention getting it beat up on the road towing, sheezz it only takes 5 minutes at the most to pop it off!...:rolleyes:

art do you suggest a way to clean up the prop when i take it off, it doesnt appear to have any nicks or gouges i am just picky with certain things and dont want to put a rusty prop back on.

[RiverRacer]

I use pool acid, soak it for 5 minutes or so depending on how bad it's rusted?, then rince it with water and spray immediately with WD!. If it's been rusted for a long time it will be pitted so get it polished, after that when you pull out of the water spray it with WD right away while you're waiting for the water to drain, when you put it away wipe it again with WD, no more rust!..

[Terrible toy]

Another little suggestion, leave the nut on the prop shaft when you use the puller. Back the prop nut off about 1/8 of an inch and then load the puller and tap the puller nut. Other wise the prop and puller both may come flying off when it let's go.:eek:

[RiverRacer]

That's for sure, and you know it'll get nicked on the way to the ground!..

[Terrible toy]

That's for sure, and you know it'll get nicked on the way to the ground!..

Quite a surprise when your laying under the boat and that expensive, razor sharp prop pops off and lands next to your head. Once was enough for me!

You mentioned taking the prop off, good idea for an expensive steel two blade. I ran into the problem, especially at tracks like firebird or Red Bluff where I would leave after work on Friday and tow all night to get there. If you were scheduled for and early run you would be pressed for time. So, I had a local upholstery shop make a prop cover for me and would leave it on for towing. I would take the props off between races, and I also tried to magna flux them on a regular basis.

[GR8WHITE]

I use pool acid, soak it for 5 minutes or so depending on how bad it's rusted?, then rince it with water and spray immediately with WD!. If it's been rusted for a long time it will be pitted so get it polished, after that when you pull out of the water spray it with WD right away while you're waiting for the water to drain, when you put it away wipe it again with WD, no more rust!..

Any special kind of pool acid art? and i take it dont try and use a wire wheel of any sort to get the rust off right?:o

[RiverRacer]

Any special kind of pool acid art? and i take it dont try and use a wire wheel of any sort to get the rust off right?:o

A wire wheel won't get it all of because of the pits, didn't know there was different kind of pool acid??, it's just meuratic acid you can get it at the grocery store or Home Dump!..

[RiverRacer]

Quite a surprise when your laying under the boat and that expensive, razor sharp prop pops off and lands next to your head. Once was enough for me!

You mentioned taking the prop off, good idea for an expensive steel two blade. I ran into the problem, especially at tracks like firebird or Red Bluff where I would leave after work on Friday and tow all night to get there. If you were scheduled for and early run you would be pressed for time. So, I had a local upholstery shop make a prop cover for me and would leave it on for towing. I would take the props off between races, and I also tried to magna flux them on a regular basis.

Yeah you got that right, that prop can slice you up real quick!..

Talk about a prop cover, I had one once worked pretty good too, until one time heading to Parker for a race at night, all of a sudden I hear clink clank thud, WTF was that, I pulled over and looked at what I could see in the dark with a flash light and no damage, cool so in the morning I take the prop cover off and here is a big rip in the cover, look at the prop and here is this ding on the end of an ear, fortunately I could file it and it got me thru the weekend, that's when I swore no matter what, the prop comes off when it's not in the water!..

[Terrible toy]

I agree about taking care of a good prop. It's the most difficult piece of hardware to duplicate on a boat. That Cary prop I mentioned that had developed a crack in the hub was a good example. I gave the thing to Black and then Precision to copy and neither one ran as good.

[RiverRacer]

Yeah, props can be a nightmare and when you finally get one that "WORKS" it's worth it's weight in gold!..

[GR8WHITE]

ok will do art, i should have it off this weekend.

[poncho]

get a fine wire wheel for youre bench grinder and tread lightly to easy to start removing material even with a wire,i`m sure Art`s right behind me with something better

[poncho]

get a fine wire wheel for youre bench grinder and tread lightly to easy to start removing material even with a wire,i`m sure Art`s right behind me with something better

Holly crap kinda late to this party somehow i landed on an earlier page instead of the last one,what a tool

[RiverRacer]

Holly crap kinda late to this party somehow i landed on an earlier page instead of the last one,what a tool

LMAO!..:D:D

[RiverRacer]

Make sure you check that the prop doesn't ride up on the key when you get that sorted too.

Yep, prop needs to go on without the key first and marked, then put the prop on and it should go to the mark, if not then the key needs fine tuning!..

[Fooshizn1x]

And if you still need to use a puller, I'll be around this Saturday and am located in La Mirada. Have a puller I just got from Rex 2 weeks ago, and I've got torches here too. Shoot me a message if you are sill in need... actually replacing the strut bushings is something I have to do tomorrow too..

[RiverRacer]

And if you still need to use a puller, I'll be around this Saturday and am located in La Mirada. Have a puller I just got from Rex 2 weeks ago, and I've got torches here too. Shoot me a message if you are sill in need... actually replacing the strut bushings is something I have to do tomorrow too..

Don't get nuts with the heat or you'll change the heat treating, if it won't come off, just pull the shaft and make a slide hammer for it!..

[poncho]

And if you still need to use a puller, I'll be around this Saturday and am located in La Mirada. Have a puller I just got from Rex 2 weeks ago, and I've got torches here too. Shoot me a message if you are sill in need... actually replacing the strut bushings is something I have to do tomorrow too..

Thats damn neighborly of you,nice!

[carteaco]

Strut bushings come in 2 different OD's, 1.25 & 1.375, for a 1" shaft. Verify what you need. Before you cut the bushing into 2 pieces, with a marker put a mark on each end at the centerline of the bushing. The bushings are not drilled exactly in the center. Give the cut ends a few swipes with sand paper to remove any burrs. Install the bushing from opposite ends into the strut with the marks aligned. I have used a long bolt or allthread with a nut and washer at each end. Squezze the bushing into the stut untill about 1/8 to 1/4" of bushing is still sticking out of the strut. Cut off the excess with a hacksaw to remove any mushrooming caused during installation. 1 last swipe withs sandpaper on the cut. You might give a squirt of WD40 into the new bushing before you stab the shaft to help it through.

[RiverRacer]

I made this out some scrap, pull both in at the same time. Front one has an index that pulls the bushing in an 1/8", kinda forces more water through!..

http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/attachment.php?attachmentid=286&stc=1&d=1210518347

[Bigblock]

Would i be right to say that the wip skeg bush is removed & pressed in the same way?
Also i have been told that you should only insert 11/2 inches of bush into each end of the strut leaving a gap in the middle. My strut length is 4" so thats a 1" gap.
I thought this to be good advice but that would be going against what has been said in this thread.:confused:

Please set me straight
Bigblock

[RiverRacer]

Wow, that's one heck of a short strut tube, usually the bushings are about 4" and just cut them in half for each end, think I'd just stick the whole thing in there since you only have 4"????... Whip strut is the same!..

[Bigblock]

How long is yours???

[RiverRacer]

How long is yours???

Average length 10 3/4"!...

http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/attachment.php?attachmentid=1302&stc=1&d=1223179970

[156]

Average length 10 3/4"!...

http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/attachment.php?attachmentid=1302&stc=1&d=1223179970

Did you make that Art?

[Bigblock]

RR
I just spoke to a mate & he said mine is a ski boat set up & that i should upgrade to something like yours next time i pull my motor.
http://www.rexmar.com/page134.html
Would this be a short one like mine or longer like yours?

[Terrible toy]

That is a short strut, would be hard on a hydro shaft where the prop is carrying a huge part of the boat weight.:eek:

Lucky guys from down under, your summer is just starting. Maybe someone has already covered this but I would like to know more about your v drive racing boats and the type of racing they are used in. Interesting looking bottoms with the rounded chines and strakes running up the sides. Are they strictly racing hulls or do you use them for recreation also?

TT

[RiverRacer]

Did you make that Art?

Nope, J.J. made that along with the fins!...

[RiverRacer]

RR
I just spoke to a mate & he said mine is a ski boat set up & that i should upgrade to something like yours next time i pull my motor.

Your mate is absolutely correct!..

[RiverRacer]

RR
I just spoke to a mate & he said mine is a ski boat set up & that i should upgrade to something like yours next time i pull my motor.
http://www.rexmar.com/page134.html
Would this be a short one like mine or longer like yours?

That is the same bronze ski boat stuff that you have now, you need to convert to steel!..