Fooshizn1x
04-26-2008, 07:10 AM
I wanted to share my adventure of installing new tanks into my 71 hondo, step by step with pictures, the way I did it. I searched and asked around but never could find a process that I, A) understood, B) could do on my own cheaply, and C) didnt think was too weak.
Originally my boat had 2 bolts glassed into the hull for each of the plastic tanks, one per side. The tanks had plastic L brackets securing the tank to the hull and that was it. I could not remove the nuts from 2 of them as they just spun in the floor. I ended up cutting the nut off using a dremel with cut off wheel as a nut splitter wouldnt fit easily. The existing bolts sticking up did not provide enough thread nor were they in the proper location for the tanks I had to be installed. So here is what I ended up doing...
I took a 1x4 and measured the length between the two straps for each tank, they were close to the threads already glassed in to I extended it a bit further to incorporate those for added strength. I drilled for the existing bolts and set the board in place, put the tank in the straps and dry fitted it several times to get the right location. Once the board was the right length, I marked the holes for the straps, drilled and used fender washers on each side for strength and to keep from pulling through. I then put the straps on top and cut them to length leaving enough room to get the nut in and tighten it after its in the boat. After more dry fitting, I sanded and prepped the wood. As suggested by a cousin who worked at Magic Boats for a short period of time I used a mixture of resin and mineral spirits (I think.. pics dont show and I dont remember for sure, will check w/ father for facts) I "painted" each board in its entirety with the resin/acetone mixture hopefully waterproofing it forever. To prep the floor I took out my handy dandy 12" L-Angle grinder W/ 60 Grit paper (yeah a little overkill probably) and scuffed up the area where the board was to be installed in the floor of the boat. I mixed up more resin/min spirits, painted the floor and bottom of board and set in place. Adding the mineral spirits to the resin allowed us more work time, and after making several small batches we found the right ratio we liked and it was very reasonable to apply using only the cheap 99 cent paint brushes from local hardware store. My father and I proceeded to apply the resin about an inch and a half out, all the way around the board, then while still wet, we laid braided/mesh fiberglass all the way across, taking our time to make sure the fiberglass was completely soaked through and overlapping the board and the floor sufficiently. Once completed you may proceed to sand, feather and buff in all the new work to flow nicely from your existing floor. I havent got to that point yet as I installed these just before leaving for my first, and only trip so far.
The installation only took us a few hours start to finish. I know it is not the prettiest setup but i'd rather sacrifice some looks and make sure my tanks werent going to go anywhere, had a car catch fire once, scary, no flaming boats for me! Even being the novice boater I am, I've seen many repaired tanks already, my guess due to hull flex, vibration and the beating from pounding on wakes, etc.
I cant tell you that I felt any handling differences as I hadnt driven it prior. As far as how I think it handles now is great. I'd like additional opinions and rides in others for comparison.
If any of you Pro's see any major errors in what i've done please let me know. (aside from possibly stiffening the boat a tad).
Other ideas I heard:
drill completely through the hull.. umm.. no thanks.
use short self tapping screws down into the floor.. again no thanks.
Glass in small pads under each of the tank mounts instead of mounting a whole board (like I did)
If this helps even one person, I'm glad to have been of service. Pictures to follow:
Originally my boat had 2 bolts glassed into the hull for each of the plastic tanks, one per side. The tanks had plastic L brackets securing the tank to the hull and that was it. I could not remove the nuts from 2 of them as they just spun in the floor. I ended up cutting the nut off using a dremel with cut off wheel as a nut splitter wouldnt fit easily. The existing bolts sticking up did not provide enough thread nor were they in the proper location for the tanks I had to be installed. So here is what I ended up doing...
I took a 1x4 and measured the length between the two straps for each tank, they were close to the threads already glassed in to I extended it a bit further to incorporate those for added strength. I drilled for the existing bolts and set the board in place, put the tank in the straps and dry fitted it several times to get the right location. Once the board was the right length, I marked the holes for the straps, drilled and used fender washers on each side for strength and to keep from pulling through. I then put the straps on top and cut them to length leaving enough room to get the nut in and tighten it after its in the boat. After more dry fitting, I sanded and prepped the wood. As suggested by a cousin who worked at Magic Boats for a short period of time I used a mixture of resin and mineral spirits (I think.. pics dont show and I dont remember for sure, will check w/ father for facts) I "painted" each board in its entirety with the resin/acetone mixture hopefully waterproofing it forever. To prep the floor I took out my handy dandy 12" L-Angle grinder W/ 60 Grit paper (yeah a little overkill probably) and scuffed up the area where the board was to be installed in the floor of the boat. I mixed up more resin/min spirits, painted the floor and bottom of board and set in place. Adding the mineral spirits to the resin allowed us more work time, and after making several small batches we found the right ratio we liked and it was very reasonable to apply using only the cheap 99 cent paint brushes from local hardware store. My father and I proceeded to apply the resin about an inch and a half out, all the way around the board, then while still wet, we laid braided/mesh fiberglass all the way across, taking our time to make sure the fiberglass was completely soaked through and overlapping the board and the floor sufficiently. Once completed you may proceed to sand, feather and buff in all the new work to flow nicely from your existing floor. I havent got to that point yet as I installed these just before leaving for my first, and only trip so far.
The installation only took us a few hours start to finish. I know it is not the prettiest setup but i'd rather sacrifice some looks and make sure my tanks werent going to go anywhere, had a car catch fire once, scary, no flaming boats for me! Even being the novice boater I am, I've seen many repaired tanks already, my guess due to hull flex, vibration and the beating from pounding on wakes, etc.
I cant tell you that I felt any handling differences as I hadnt driven it prior. As far as how I think it handles now is great. I'd like additional opinions and rides in others for comparison.
If any of you Pro's see any major errors in what i've done please let me know. (aside from possibly stiffening the boat a tad).
Other ideas I heard:
drill completely through the hull.. umm.. no thanks.
use short self tapping screws down into the floor.. again no thanks.
Glass in small pads under each of the tank mounts instead of mounting a whole board (like I did)
If this helps even one person, I'm glad to have been of service. Pictures to follow: