Wet Stack plumbing

[Yeager]

I have a set of Sanderson headers w/ (2) sets of spray bars in each header. One bar on each header has nothing attached to it, the others have 3/8" lines attached to it.

I'll over explain it since I have no clue if this thing is plumbed correctly. There is an intake port on the bottom of the boat just behind the V-Drive, a 3/8" line comes up a couple inches then it T's. One side goes to the V-Drive, the other side goes directly to the headers. (w/ a tee under the oil pan)

Is this correct? I dont see how this would work?

New at this V-Drive stuff.......Thanks for the help.

Mark

[RiverRacer]

Well, I don't understand the 2 spray bars on each header???, but the pickup by the v-drive is for the v-drive only, it goes from the pickup to the v-drive then dumps into the shaftlog!. The headers get fed from a line from the dump on the motor!.. Post some pics of you're whole system so we can see what you have, then we can straighten it out for ya!.....

[Yeager]

The line does run from the floor to the v-drive, then from the v-drive to the shaftlog. (But then it T's before the V-Drive and goes to the headers.)

I'll try and take some pictures tonight.

Thanks,
Mark

[Norcal_73]

strange plumbing

[RiverRacer]

The line does run from the floor to the v-drive, then from the v-drive to the shaftlog. (But then it T's before the V-Drive and goes to the headers.)

I'll try and take some pictures tonight.

Thanks,
Mark

That is not right at all, you feed the headers from the dump on the motor not the v-drive!...

[Yeager]

Hopefully these pictures will work. The line that runs off to the back of the boat splits and goes directly to the headers. If it is wrong, where do I run the water from?

Thanks,
Mark

[hm66Howard]

Just what Art said. The headers are normally fed by the water coming out of the engine. :)

[RiverRacer]

Hopefully these pictures will work. The line that runs off to the back of the boat splits and goes directly to the headers. If it is wrong, where do I run the water from?

Thanks,
Mark

That's totally wrong you're starving the v-drive and the headers. Feed the v-drive only from that pickup, feed the headers from the motor dump or from an extra fitting off the intake manifold to a Bassett valve to the headers!..

http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/attachment.php?attachmentid=173&d=1208404206

[Yeager]

OK,

Thanks for the help. Will a Rewarder T valve work? I found one online.

Can I tap into the line that dumps hot water out the back of the boat? I have (2)

Thanks,
Mark

[RiverRacer]

OK,

Thanks for the help. Will a Rewarder T valve work? I found one online.

Can I tap into the line that dumps hot water out the back of the boat? I have (2)

Thanks,
Mark

No problem Mark it is the same thing, just a check valve to stop the water at idle... Yes, that is the way to do it from the dump, also put restrictors in to limit the amount of water into the headers!...

[GR8WHITE]

OK,

Thanks for the help. Will a Rewarder T valve work? I found one online.

Can I tap into the line that dumps hot water out the back of the boat? I have (2)

Thanks,
Mark

hey man i bought a new t valve from cp performance because i didnt look at my boat before i ordered it because the guy i bought my boat from had a manual valve on it so i figured i didnt have a t-valve, but i was wrong it had a bassett t-valve with no spring or ball in it. so if you need one i will give it to you cheap and i think its like 12 bucks for the ball and spring from bassett, or 85 bucks for a new t- valve, let me know.

[Yeager]

Just dropped $85.....yesterday. :cool: The new valve is sitting on my doorstep....

Thanks for the offer though!

Mark

[RiverRacer]

Wow, $85 for that POS, I'd a saved the money and run them dry,lol!. Actually I would never run water through the headers!..

[gfinishline]

I was going to suggest something for those who run water and only the "T" (ball & spring) valve, but I guess I'm out of step here. It seems that most will just not run water, and that works too. I do know that a few guys here are still running "force fed" header water, but it seems they have no comment. PS, "two water lines" on the headers, goes way back to the time when guys wanted to "control the dirty spray" that came out of the basic 'weep holes'. The second set of SS lines went back to a hose that either went into the bilge or out thru the transom of the boat. This second set of lines prevented the "black carbon water" from spraying all over the motor, mounts and other trick stuff, below them. The 'weep holes' were drilled out much larger when the fittings and lines were installed.

[RiverRacer]

I was going to suggest something for those who run water and only the "T" (ball & spring) valve, but I guess I'm out of step here. It seems that most will just not run water, and that works too. I do know that a few guys here are still running "force fed" header water, but it seems they have no comment. PS, "two water lines" on the headers, goes way back to the time when guys wanted to "control the dirty spray" that came out of the basic 'weep holes'. The second set of SS lines went back to a hose that either went into the bilge or out thru the transom of the boat. This second set of lines prevented the "black carbon water" from spraying all over the motor, mounts and other trick stuff, below them. The 'weep holes' were drilled out much larger when the fittings and lines were installed.

I remember seeing a setup like that, works good!..

[warpt71]

I was going to suggest something for those who run water and only the "T" (ball & spring) valve, but I guess I'm out of step here. It seems that most will just not run water, and that works too. I do know that a few guys here are still running "force fed" header water, but it seems they have no comment. PS, "two water lines" on the headers, goes way back to the time when guys wanted to "control the dirty spray" that came out of the basic 'weep holes'. The second set of SS lines went back to a hose that either went into the bilge or out thru the transom of the boat. This second set of lines prevented the "black carbon water" from spraying all over the motor, mounts and other trick stuff, below them. The 'weep holes' were drilled out much larger when the fittings and lines were installed.

Im running the T, ball and spring w/ NO problems!!! One line out of the intake feeds the headers. Dad is running an empty T that is force fed from the plate. Everyone do it there owne way, and w/ a little tweeking anything can be made to work well for your aplication :D

[Yeager]

Out of step? Lets hear it. I will be re-plumbing the headers this weekend. So any ideas or advice is welcome.

Thanks,
Mark

Oh, and I guess my second spray bar just puts the dirty water out in one spot on the floor.;) Maybe I'll figure out a way to actully utilize them.

[gfinishline]

I have found that when using a "T" valve ONLY on water that is the SECOND LINE direct from the motor (pump pressure) this little addition works. I use an SS 1/8" pipe plug, I drill a 7/32" hole in it. Basset valves just require the plug be pressed in, but Jim's (Rewarder) require the plug be put in a vise and 'bent' oval to stay in place. The 7/32" hole makes the valve react SLOWLY to open and QUICKLY to close, just like a hydraulic cylinder with a restricted inlet. I also install a small amount of plastic, brass, or stainless SCREEN in the intake manifold water fitting where the header water leaves it. This way the valve does not get clogged with junk. There are many ways to do everything, this is just one that has worked for my customers for 25/30 years.

[George1301]

Ok...
With my setup was this way.. of which I saw no reason to change..?
Mine goes:
From the water neck at the engine manifold... there are two #8 lines running seperate to the back of the boat ... each with a valve to "throttle" the amount...
From this same water neck is a #6 line that goes back to the drive... from the drive to the shaft log and out.
From each side of the engine intake manifold ( at the rear of the manifold)I ran a #8 TEE'd together then up ( Blower belt end ) to the REX Tee-Valve... from the TEE-Valve out each way to each header.
Sounds complicated but really isn't... All the lines are run very neatly...
My only thought is the hot water coming from the engine going to the drive... About 180... At lease I won't be dealing with stiff oil..? Running 80-140 in the drive.