View Full Version : best products for hull repair?
GR8WHITE
04-09-2008, 08:32 PM
hey guys i have a couple of chips/gouges taken out of my hull under the bow in the front and on the rear where the cav. plates and i have one spot that looks like it has been scraped and a 8" section of fiberglass is separated from the wood underneath on the drivers side i guess it is called the gun whale. what should i use to patch these up so i can sand it smooth before i paint the boat. i have done automotive body work and patched some holes in our old mastercraft with some fiberglass but what should i use here some kind of putty, resin or epoxy? i found this stuff 3m marine high strength repair filler. thanks guys
here is another one i found
lebel409
04-14-2008, 05:45 PM
Go to Performance Boats... fiberglass repair...
You can fill nicks and dents...Billy B had a recommendation, but I forgot what it's called.
For structural work and delamination you can't just reglue it. It has to come off and be reglassed. I'd take it somewhere for piece of mind...
GR8WHITE
04-14-2008, 10:37 PM
Go to Performance Boats... fiberglass repair...
You can fill nicks and dents...Billy B had a recommendation, but I forgot what it's called.
For structural work and delamination you can't just reglue it. It has to come off and be reglassed. I'd take it somewhere for piece of mind...
this is a spot on the side that is splitting apart, i was thinking of ripping it off and reglassing over it.
lebel409
04-15-2008, 12:45 AM
Do the nickel test...
Start at the broken part and tap with a nickel...until you find (hear) the solid bonded hull. Mark with a felt tipped pen. All the loose areas need to come off... and then some. Now clean/prep/glass
GR8WHITE
04-30-2008, 08:08 PM
Do the nickel test...
Start at the broken part and tap with a nickel...until you find (hear) the solid bonded hull. Mark with a felt tipped pen. All the loose areas need to come off... and then some. Now clean/prep/glass
how bout when i sand down an area, i am gonna need something to smear over the lower spot to fill it so i can then sand it down to be flush with the rest of the material, kinda like a marine body filler i guess, do you have any suggestions?
lebel409
05-01-2008, 12:51 AM
I'll try and be more specific...but when I started doing this on mine I realized it was time to break out the checkbook.
When you've marked your "bad area" get a makita with sanding attachment or similar...36 grit. Grind everything away that's not bonded and feather the edges into the good fiberglass...at least a couple of inches.
Backtracking a second, fiberglass bonds two ways, chemically and mechanically. Once fiberglass has set up, the only way to bond to it is mechanically. So be sure you have plenty of surface to bond to AND it's rough.
Now cut your fiberglass mat pieces to cover the area. At least three layers, maybe more. Use the mat to determine how thick, remember, the resin is a poor filler and not strong.
Mix the resin according to the instructions, wet the surface, apply the first piece of mat, wet it, repeat until it's all on. It all has to be wet, no dry areas, no bubbles. Now try and get as much resin off as you can.
IF YOU HAVE LOW SPOTS add more mat while the resin is still tacky...chemical bond. The idea it to have solid glass with no filler...remember the fiberglass is the chassis here, not just a body panel like a car.
After it sets up let it cure...start leveling with sandpaper...maybe the 36 grit again around the edges.
If there are some scratches, minor low spots, etc., I've heard of some stuff called Marglass...I guess a fiberglass bondo, but no shrinkage and designed for a filler. The a high build primer and you should be ready for paint.
GR8WHITE
05-01-2008, 01:33 AM
I'll try and be more specific...but when I started doing this on mine I realized it was time to break out the checkbook.
When you've marked your "bad area" get a makita with sanding attachment or similar...36 grit. Grind everything away that's not bonded and feather the edges into the good fiberglass...at least a couple of inches.
Backtracking a second, fiberglass bonds two ways, chemically and mechanically. Once fiberglass has set up, the only way to bond to it is mechanically. So be sure you have plenty of surface to bond to AND it's rough.
Now cut your fiberglass mat pieces to cover the area. At least three layers, maybe more. Use the mat to determine how thick, remember, the resin is a poor filler and not strong.
Mix the resin according to the instructions, wet the surface, apply the first piece of mat, wet it, repeat until it's all on. It all has to be wet, no dry areas, no bubbles. Now try and get as much resin off as you can.
IF YOU HAVE LOW SPOTS add more mat while the resin is still tacky...chemical bond. The idea it to have solid glass with no filler...remember the fiberglass is the chassis here, not just a body panel like a car.
After it sets up let it cure...start leveling with sandpaper...maybe the 36 grit again around the edges.
If there are some scratches, minor low spots, etc., I've heard of some stuff called Marglass...I guess a fiberglass bondo, but no shrinkage and designed for a filler. The a high build primer and you should be ready for paint.
Thanks for your help, i will look into the marglass and i hope your everything is going good on your boat.
BradP
05-01-2008, 01:39 AM
This too.
kitty hair
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=38
GR8WHITE
05-01-2008, 01:42 AM
This too.
kitty hair
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=38
thanks brad i was trying to remember the name of the stuff you suggested.
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