casale v-drive oil change help!!!!

[GR8WHITE]

hey guys i want to change the oil in my casale v-drive,and i cant find the fill or drain plugs, the only ones that i see if you are sitting down on the lower right there is a jacked up looking plug that sits out below where the water comes out of the v-drive, and on the back side of the v-drive there is the same looking plug but on the opposite side. i need some help guys thanks. what do you guys recommend for oil and weight? red line shockproof?

the picture is where the two plugs are that i am talking about. is this the fill hole? if so do i need to suck the oil out with an evacuator or something, this is the last thing i want to check before i take it out.

[BradP]

That's the drain hole.

You need to take off the top cap, save the shims they are the very thin gaskets between the top cap and the case, pull the bearing, loosen all the bolts and crack the case slighty. BEFORE you do this put a plastic bag under the case per the directions in Art's disassembly thread. :D The bag will catch most of the old gear oil that runs out.

I don't think this can be done without pulling the bearing.

Put the bearing in the freezer while the oil drains. When the oil stops draining put the case back together, put the bearing in and the cap on then remove the rear plug in the case. Fill the case from the front plug until it just starts to drain out of the back plug.

It wouldn't hurt to split the casae completely and take a look inside for rust or anything else except it will probably tear the gasket.

[Norcal_73]

Red Line Heavy Shockproof here.

[GR8WHITE]

this is the fill hole facing the front of the boat correct? if i remember right that plug on my v-drive is alot lower, i think its in the same position and spot as the one facing the transom. and is that the bearing that i need to pull?

[GR8WHITE]

this hole?

[Norcal_73]

rear plug is usually the lower one.

[BradP]

this hole?

That's the fill hole.

That's also the bearing puller you need.

Or you can borrow mine if you want to drag your rig to the Valley this weekend.

[GR8WHITE]

That's the fill hole.

That's also the bearing puller you need.

Or you can borrow mine if you want to drag your rig to the Valley this weekend.

I was just working on my boat yesterday and i swear that both of those plugs are at the same level, but one on each side, one is not higher than the other thats why i was wondering where the fill hole is? maybe i had too many beers or something yesterday but i dont remember the one facing the bow being up that high. well i will have to wait until this weekend to look at it again.

by the way where do you live brad?

[RiverRacer]

Ok, the hole beside my thumb is for water and so is the one on the other side, the bottom one with the arrow is the level plug you fill it to the threads, the fill hole is on the front cover on the top on the opposite side!. There is no drain plug, you need to pop the case to drain the oil, and do an inspection at the same time!..

http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/attachment.php?attachmentid=114&d=1207685785

[BradP]

I was just working on my boat this yesterday and i swear that both of those plugs are at the same level, but one on each side, one is not higher than the other thats why i was wondering where the fill hole is? maybe i had too many beers or something yesterday but i dont remember the one facing the bow being up that high. well i will have to wait until this weekend to look at it again.

by the way where do you live brad?

Encino, aren't you near Castaic?

[GR8WHITE]

i work in valencia at an acura dealership, and i live in lancaster in the antelope valley, ugh. i bought this boat down in northridge.

[GR8WHITE]

Ok, the hole beside my thumb is for water and so is the one on the other side, the bottom one with the arrow is the level plug you fill it to the threads, the fill hole is on the front cover on the top on the opposite side!. There is no drain plug, you need to pop the case to drain the oil, and do an inspection at the same time!..

http://www.v-driveboat.com/vweb/attachment.php?attachmentid=114&d=1207685785

do i need to replace the gasket if i crack the case? or can i get away with popping the lower part of the case, letting it drain and then bolting it back up, and how much fluid does it take, about a quart im guessing?

[RiverRacer]

If the case was put on the right way(grease only)it should come off and the gasket can be reused, if not oh well,lol. The case is one piece so it has to come straight out, but if you pop the case loose you need to take it off to inspect it and clean out all the old oil!.... I don't remember how much it takes don't care, you fill to the threads and that's it!..

[GR8WHITE]

If the case was put on the right way(grease only)it should come off and the gasket can be reused, if not oh well,lol. The case is one piece so it has to come straight out, but if you pop the case loose you need to take it off to inspect it and clean out all the old oil!.... I don't remember how much it takes don't care, you fill to the threads and that's it!..

just asking how much it takes cause im gonna pick up some redline shockproof on my lunch break and need to know how much to buy, and i have always had superb results running shockproof.

[RiverRacer]

Nothing wrong with it!..

[GR8WHITE]

Nothing wrong with it!..

thanks for all the help racer:D

[RiverRacer]

thanks for all the help racer:D

No problemo amigo!..:D

[GR8WHITE]

do all of you guys run water through the v-drive, i think i saw somewhere that some do and some dont, but i will be most likely running up and down the river 90% of the time with this boat, i am gonna hook the water up and it is set up that i just need to hook up the return line. the guy i bought it from said it doesnt get hot without it but if the holes are there to cool it down, then why not use it right, thats what they are there for. :confused:

[FC-Pilot]

We run water through the v-drive. I figure as long as it does not leak why not? It could only keep things nice and cool.

Paul

[Flatmvn]

Yes some guys run water and some don't. If you use synthetic oil then you can get away with not using water. if using conventional gear oil then you will need water.

If the water is not hooked up at this time I would really keep an I on the V-Drive because you don't know if there is an internal water leak and that is why it isn't hooked up. Take it out and run it then check the oil in the V-Drive and make sure it is not milky from water being in it. If no water then you are good to go.

You might want to ask the guy you bought the boat from if he was running Synthetic oil in it and that is why the water is not being used.

Louis

[BradP]

Yes some guys run water and some don't. If you use synthetic oil then you can get away with not using water. if using conventional gear oil then you will need water.

If the water is not hooked up at this time I would really keep an I on the V-Drive because you don't know if there is an internal water leak and that is why it isn't hooked up. Take it out and run it then check the oil in the V-Drive and make sure it is not milky from water being in it. If no water then you are good to go.

You might want to ask the guy you bought the boat from if he was running Synthetic oil in it and that is why the water is not being used.

Louis

Hell I run water all the way through my v-drive all the time.:confused::eek::D

[GR8WHITE]

Yes some guys run water and some don't. If you use synthetic oil then you can get away with not using water. if using conventional gear oil then you will need water.

If the water is not hooked up at this time I would really keep an I on the V-Drive because you don't know if there is an internal water leak and that is why it isn't hooked up. Take it out and run it then check the oil in the V-Drive and make sure it is not milky from water being in it. If no water then you are good to go.

You might want to ask the guy you bought the boat from if he was running Synthetic oil in it and that is why the water is not being used.

Louis

Ha ha, yeah right if forgot to get the ski tow from him when i bought it and i have called him about 10 times to see if i could come back and grab it and he hasnt returned one call, i will be running shockproof heavy in it, how should i check the oil, shove something small down in there, pull it out and see how it looks? and when i asked him when i bought it he said i could hook it up if i wanted to but he said he never had a problem with it getting hot. the hose was on the pickup from where the prop shaft is but it wasnt connected to the v-drive so i went ahead and hooked it up, so this weekend i need to hook up a return hose to the side of the boat. i bought clear nylon reinforced tubing so i could see if its working right.

[FC-Pilot]

If it is getting water into the oil it will be obvious. It will be milky and it will also be over full so when you pull the fill level plug it would run out. That should make it obvious.

Paul

[BradP]

Or if you somehow brain fart reassembly on the box and water is getting in it will spray gear oil all over you and the boat at speed.

Just something I heard about once.:rolleyes:

[GR8WHITE]

If it is getting water into the oil it will be obvious. It will be milky and it will also be over full so when you pull the fill level plug it would run out. That should make it obvious.

Paul

the good ol milkshake look, ok thanks fc for the input. :)

[GR8WHITE]

ok i took a picture of the front of the v-drive because i know i didnt see a top fill plug, only two lower ones here is a picture.

[GR8WHITE]

here is the top side, and there is no plug there on top only on the lower right side (see picture above)

[GR8WHITE]

That's the fill hole.

That's also the bearing puller you need.

Or you can borrow mine if you want to drag your rig to the Valley this weekend.

you know what brad i might take you up on that offer. i checked the oil inside of the v-drive today and it is half oil and half milk shake. how long would it take to pull that bearing split the case apart take a look inside and put it back together cause i have never done one of these before, and where can i get the parts? do
i just need a gasket. thanks for the help brad.

[BradP]

you know what brad i might take you up on that offer. i checked the oil inside of the v-drive today and it is half oil and half milk shake. how long would it take to pull that bearing split the case apart take a look inside and put it back together cause i have never done one of these before, and where can i get the parts? do
i just need a gasket. thanks for the help brad.

Wouldn't take long but what's the deal with no bolt on the bottom cap to split the case?

[GR8WHITE]

Wouldn't take long but what's the deal with no bolt on the bottom cap to split the case?

are you talking about a bolt that is supposed to be in the middle of the round cover on the bottom.

[BradP]

are you talking about a bolt that is supposed to be in the middle of the round cover on the bottom.


Yes, that is what splits the case after the top bearing is pulled.

Read Art's step by step v-drive service in the other thread, it's on page two.

It also looks like there isn't even a boss on the case to drill and tap a pipe plug for the fill.:confused:

[GR8WHITE]

ok i called dan but i found a new number after looking around and i called the old number and it is some ladies house :confused: i did find his number and it is 661-510-6362 if anyone needs to get ahold of him. anyway i called him and he said he now has a full time job and does v-drive stuff out of his house on the side. but he asked me to find out if it is 5 bolt, or 6 bolt so he can get me the right gasket set. he said take off the cover where the shifter arm is and if there is 1 nut then it is a 5 bolt and if there are 2 nuts then it is a 6 bolt housing, man this is getting confusing.

[GR8WHITE]

well brad i think i might need more than a fluid change, i just went out and took that side cover off and i got more than i bargained for, a ball bearing came out of the hole along with the arm and a fork and i take it that ball bearing isnt supposed to come out :mad:, well brad if you want me to bring it down should i still bring the whole boat or should i take the whole v-drive out cause i dont think its gonna look pretty inside.:(

[BradP]

well brad i think i might need more than a fluid change, i just went out and took that side cover off and i got more than i bargained for, a ball bearing came out of the hole along with the arm and a fork and i take it that ball bearing isnt supposed to come out :mad:, well brad if you want me to bring it down should i still bring the whole boat or should i take the whole v-drive out cause i dont think its gonna look pretty inside.:(

That "ball" is for the shift mechanism, not a ball bearing.



http://www.glen-l.com/inboard-hdw/casale-62560-draw1.html

[FC-Pilot]

I would pull it out and take it to Brad. It will be easier and cleaner to work on a bench in stead of the floor of the boat. That ball is not a big issue, but having the right gaskets and help will be invaluable.

Paul

[BradP]

I would pull it out and take it to Brad. It will be easier and cleaner to work on a bench in stead of the floor of the boat. That ball is not a big issue, but having the right gaskets and help will be invaluable.

Paul

Before he yanks the whole box I think we should just take a quick look.
If the bearings are shot or the plate is corroded through he'll be pulling the deal.

What's the deal with no fill plug, no boss for the fill plug and no spreader bolt?

[RiverRacer]

Ok let's not panic here, no need to pull the v-drive out yet, need to pop the case and drain it first, a milk shake don't cause rust water does, as long as there's no sign of rust anywhere just look for a sourse of the leak, more than likely it will show up on that side, if not then you'll need to look at the other side, in that case then you'll need to yank it and do a tear down!.. Now, that bottom cap is just a cap that wasn't tapped for a bolt, maybe it has tapered bearings??? in that case it falls apart when you take the bolts out!.. If that's not the case then just drill and tap the cover for a bolt, 10 minutes and you're good to go!.. I seen cases with no fill holes before so who cares, fill it at the level hole to the threads just like a rear end in a car, bada bing done deal!.... Oh btw, that ball bearing is the shift detent ball!..

[GR8WHITE]

Ok let's not panic here, no need to pull the v-drive out yet, need to pop the case and drain it first, a milk shake don't cause rust water does, as long as there's no sign of rust anywhere just look for a sourse of the leak, more than likely it will show up on that side, if not then you'll need to look at the other side, in that case then you'll need to yank it and do a tear down!.. Now, that bottom cap is just a cap that wasn't tapped for a bolt, maybe it has tapered bearings??? in that case it falls apart when you take the bolts out!.. If that's not the case then just drill and tap the cover for a bolt, 10 minutes and you're good to go!.. I seen cases with no fill holes before so who cares, fill it at the level hole to the threads just like a rear end in a car, bada bing done deal!.... Oh btw, that ball bearing is the shift detent ball!..

ok thanks so much racer and thanks for the call brad you guys have helped soo much. ok im gonna try and make it to brads house on sunday and get a crash course 101 in v-drive assembly. whew i thought that was a ball bearing until after i posted and went back and noticed a spring on the upper part of the housing where the ball sat and brad confirmed to me that is where it goes. also i gues i need a gasket for a 6 bolt housing what ever that means, cause i cracked the case and there were two bolts not one so hopefully i get the right one :eek:

[Terrible toy]

Casale has several IPBs on their website, like the one I attached. Might help you visualize what Art and others are telling you.

[SonnyGlide]

Bro. I had a ball fall out in the Whirl A Way, wouldnt let me shift, I just took the ball out and made a lill detent at the top of the locking plate just like the detent at the bottom of the plate to hold the Handle locked in the down position. it's much smoother and faster w/out the friction of the ball on the shift arm/fork assy. and I never worry about the ball falling out or if I have enough friction/force on the ball to keep it in the up position.

when it locks in the detent, it's locked, and wount move untill I push the button on the handle.
just my redneck engineering:p
hope this helps, have a fast day:)

[RiverRacer]

With a locking handle you don't need the detent, but you definitely need to add a slot to lock it out of gear, otherwise it will end up sliding into gear when you don't want it to!..

[Mr. V-Driver]

Lock assembly, ball and spring + locking handle with quadrant with detent will doulble ensure your locked in or out of gear! ;)

[GR8WHITE]

Lock assembly, ball and spring + locking handle with quadrant with detent will doulble ensure your locked in or out of gear! ;)

How much does this run and where do you get it?

[lebel409]

I had Ron Braaksma put one on when he rebuilt my V-drive RBR.com I think.

It's a drive for you from the valley (he's near CSU San Bernadino), but he knows his stuff. He can check the drive, tell you what gears are in it, if everything is safe, etc.

Some of the better money I spent.

[Mr. V-Driver]

How much does this run and where do you get it?


Casale or anyone of our Authorized Dealers!;)

[RiverRacer]

i need a gasket for a 6 bolt housing what ever that means,

That means you have 6 bolts holding the shift housing to the case, some have 5 bolts!..

[GR8WHITE]

That means you have 6 bolts holding the shift housing to the case, some have 5 bolts!..

well it seems you learn something new every hour on this website, thanks again art.:D

[RiverRacer]

well it seems you learn something new every hour on this website, thanks again art.:D

You're welcome!...:D

[BradP]

well it seems you learn something new every hour on this website, thanks again art.

Art's a flippin v-drive encyclopedia.:D

BTW don't ever piss him off or he'll round house kick you in the head without even having to leave Arizona.:p:eek::D

[RiverRacer]

Art's a flippin v-drive encyclopedia.:D

BTW don't ever piss him off or he'll round house kick you in the head without even having to leave Arizona.:D

Don't be startin that $hit here, LOL..:D:D

[GR8WHITE]

hey if im running up and down the river and i am gonna be running shockproof heavy in the v-drive with no water, will i be able to only run so long before i heat up the v-drive to much, and have to shut her down so it can cool down? :confused:

[BradP]

hey if im running up and down the river and i am gonna be running shockproof heavy in the v-drive with no water, will i be able to only run so long before i heat up the v-drive to much, and have to shut her down so it can cool down? :confused:

I've run mine with Lucas and no water and it was fine.

[GR8WHITE]

I've run mine with Lucas and no water and it was fine.

hey brad im gonna try my hardest to make it down to you on sunday, i get paid on monday and i dont have sh!t for money for gas, but i am gonna try my damndest to get out to you. :(

[BradP]

hey brad im gonna try my hardest to make it down to you on sunday, i get paid on monday and i dont have sh!t for money for gas, but i am gonna try my damndest to get out to you. :(

Don't sweat it, next week end is OK too.:D

[RiverRacer]

hey if im running up and down the river and i am gonna be running shockproof heavy in the v-drive with no water, will i be able to only run so long before i heat up the v-drive to much, and have to shut her down so it can cool down? :confused:

Unless you run marathons it won't overheat, and if you run a Syn oil it will run even cooler!...

[SonnyGlide]

if U split the case to change the oil, and U have no stink'n upper fill hole, pop the lower oil level sight hole, squirt in Ur favorite Juice in the bearing hole B4 U install the upper bearing!

RedNeck engineering 101:eek:

[RiverRacer]

if U split the case to change the oil, and U have no stink'n upper fill hole, pop the lower oil level sight hole, squirt in Ur favorite Juice in the bearing hole B4 U install the upper bearing!

RedNeck engineering 101:eek:

Nope, it's best to put the top bearing in before final tightening otherwise the case could be off just a tad to one side and the bearing won't go on!..:D

[SonnyGlide]

I guess the redneck gods R watching over me, the top bearing always went N real smooth on my drive, them 2 mid. bolts always alinged the case better then the outside bolts,... but were trying to get the juice in the box<:eek:
w/out any fill hole,
ok!.... bolt up the case after the top bearing iz installed....now just inject the juice threw one of the 5/16 -18 bolt holes that hold the top bearing cap, Ba-Da-Bing...Ba-Da-Bong< I use to have one, LOL, anyone wanna admitt to their youth? remember the 3finger baggies for $20.00 not anymore, more like 2bills
and Ur done!!!

[RiverRacer]

Even more simple just fill it in the level hole just like a rear end in a car, that way you don't have to wait for the oil to drain down, and that way you know you won't be over filled!..:D

[SonnyGlide]

did he say he had lower rear holes in the box, but none on top, what yr.model
is this 60's?
mine R on the back< level holes, there aint no way this broken back is gonna stay down there long enough to fill threw the level hole:p
hell, I cant even get outta the LazyBoy most of the time:D

[Roaddogg 4040]

did he say he had lower rear holes in the box, but none on top, what yr.model
is this 60's?
mine R on the back< level holes, there aint no way this broken back is gonna stay down there long enough to fill threw the level hole:p
hell, I cant even get outta the LazyBoy most of the time:D

I sure know how you feel. Gettin' old ain't for sissies...:D

Steve

[SonnyGlide]

yeah, when the dr.bell rings I just yell,
"Come On N"
( my ass iz stuck in the recliner ya know)
I know, I'm taking a chance, never know who/what might walk on N, might B my X, or some kid that says his mom says I'm His Daddy:eek:

WTF:o

[hm66Howard]

Jumping in here late, maybe a bit anal, and I might have answered my own questions but, oil to the threads with the mounting plate plumb right? That's how I do it. Also pulling the side cover off to drain doesn't get it all right? ;)

[RiverRacer]

The shift housing isn't full of oil just what seeps past the bottom case bearing, you have to split the case to drain it!..

[hm66Howard]

That's what I thought. I had a guy disagreeing with me though. Am I right about the level? :)

[RiverRacer]

Am I right about the level? :)

Ooops, yes it's best with with it level!..:D

[BradP]

Well we got Justin's case split with a little effort.
It must have tapered bearings since there was no splitter bolt. Some goofball siliconed the hell out of the case so we drilled and tapped the cap for a bolt anyway.

The case has a low plug front and back and the gears weren't stamped eiother 10 or 12 degree.

They're straight cut 16's and there was a 4.66 stamped on the same side as the ratio and # of teeth. What's the 4.66 indicate?

[hm66Howard]

Isn't it a terminology for the tooth profile? I can't remember which one it is though. There's a bunch.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/28/Gear_words.png

[RiverRacer]

Well we got Justin's case split with a little effort.
It must have tapered bearings since there was no splitter bolt. Some goofball siliconed the hell out of the case so we drilled and tapped the cap for a bolt anyway.

The case has a low plug front and back and the gears weren't stamped eiother 10 or 12 degree.

They're straight cut 16's and there was a 4.66 stamped on the same side as the ratio and # of teeth. What's the 4.66 indicate?

I've seen gears like that before with no markings, but straight cut 16's sound like Hallcraft gears???, what does the rest of it look like??!. You're lucky it was silicone and not contact cement, then you would have really had fun getting it apart!.LOL..

[GR8WHITE]

I've seen gears like that before with no markings, but straight cut 16's sound like Hallcraft gears???, what does the rest of it look like??!. You're lucky it was silicone and not contact cement, then you would have really had fun getting it apart!.LOL..

If it wasnt for brads help i dont think it would be fixed, i would have broke something or pulled all my hair out. and for some reason the front case on each side in the middle was drilled and tapped and had a small allen bolt going in each side of the case for what reason brad and i couldnt figure out. brad also said that my plate and case were in pretty good condition so not sure where the water came from, so for now until i can split the rear case apart and look at that side i am just gonna run heavy shockproof and no water. :)

[RiverRacer]

If it wasnt for brads help i dont think it would be fixed, i would have broke something or pulled all my hair out. and for some reason the front case on each side in the middle was drilled and tapped and had a small allen bolt going in each side of the case for what reason brad and i couldnt figure out. brad also said that my plate and case were in pretty good condition so not sure where the water came from, so for now until i can split the rear case apart and look at that side i am just gonna run heavy shockproof and no water. :)

The two allen bolts are on the case to the rear and bolt to the plate, and that's to keep the back case from separating from the plate when you pop the front case!. If there were no signs of a water leak on the front part, it could be coming from the back side, definitely don't run water!..

[GR8WHITE]

The two allen bolts are on the case to the rear and bolt to the plate, and that's to keep the back case from separating from the plate when you pop the front case!. If there were no signs of a water leak on the front part, it could be coming from the back side, definitely don't run water!..

no they are in the front case cover and dont go through the plate but they face each other on the sides, they screw in from the outer sides of the v-drive towards the center from side to side not from the front of the boat back, its weird. imagine if you are looking at the v-drive from the side, the little allen bolt will go straight through the side of the front cover going in towards the center of the v-drive area, but i dont think they go all the way through the case but i cant remember, maybe brad can chime in here and explain it a little better.

[RiverRacer]

Hmmm, interesting!.:confused:

[058]

no they are in the front case cover and dont go through the plate and face each other on the sides, they screw in from the outer sides of the v-drive towards the center from side to side not from the front of the boat back, its weird. imagine if you are looking at the v-drive from the side, the little allen bolt will go straight through the side of the front cover going in towards the center of the v-drive area, but i dont think they go all the way through the case but i cant remember, maybe brad can chime in here and explain it a little better.Those little Allen bolts are there for a leverage point to pull the front case. Wedging a flat blade screwdriver between the centerplate and the Allen bolt is all it takes to pop the case off.

[GR8WHITE]

Those little Allen bolts are there for a leverage point to pull the front case. Wedging a flat blade screwdriver between the centerplate and the Allen bolt is all it takes to pop the case off.

maybe thats why there was no splitter bolt in the lower part of the cover on my v-drive, because it does have tapered bearings, however there was so much damn silicone on it i think if we would have used those they would have broke.

[BradP]

There were no plate bolts, I shimmed the drive just in case but the back half of the case has so much silicone on it it wasn't going anywhere.:D
Justin did think of prying on the allen screws but they would have bent before the silicone let go.

I just thought of something Justin, you can remove the longer splitter bolt and just put a short bolt in there to plug it. It should split easily now without the glue.:D You would need to shorten a bolt though I don't think a ny stock lentgh would be short enough.

[RiverRacer]

Can't believe anybody would put bolts in the side of a case to pry against the plate to get it off especially with tapered bearings, the case falls off that's the reason for not having a bolt in the bottom cap!. But then again anyone that would use silicone to seal the cases???............ So when you put a gasket with grease on did it stack up right????, wonder what the back side is like, does it have a gasket and silicone or just silicone????!.

[BradP]

Both sides had silicone and gasket, I didn't check the overall depth as the shims were installed properly.

[GR8WHITE]

so art is it rare that the gears in my v-drive are straight cut, im guessing thats why this bastard is so damn loud in neutral.

[RiverRacer]

Both sides had silicone and gasket, I didn't check the overall depth as the shims were installed properly.

Wow, silicone and gaskets huh, was there two gaskets on one side along with silicone??, wonder how the back side stacks up???..

[RiverRacer]

so art is it rare that the gears in my v-drive are straight cut, im guessing thats why this bastard is so damn loud in neutral.

Well, in all the years I've never seen straight cut gears in a Casale yet, but that don't mean it don't exist, anything is possible!. But even straight cut gears won't make noise in neutral, they have to be under load before they sound off, if you have a loud noise in neutral you have a problem, the only thing you should hear in neutral is a slight clunking noise from the backlash in the gears and dogs if you don't have a whirlaway!...

[BradP]

Wow, silicone and gaskets huh, was there two gaskets on one side along with silicone??, wonder how the back side stacks up???..

Front gasket was one thick one, couldn't tell on the back one.
Gears are definitely straight cut.

[RiverRacer]

Front gasket was one thick one, couldn't tell on the back one.
Gears are definitely straight cut.

Front should only have one gasket, no markings on the gears I take it!..:confused:

[058]

Well, in all the years I've never seen straight cut gears in a Casale yet, but that don't mean it don't exist, anything is possible!. But even straight cut gears won't make noise in neutral, they have to be under load before they sound off, if you have a loud noise in neutral you have a problem, the only thing you should hear in neutral is a slight clunking noise from the backlash in the gears and dogs if you don't have a whirlaway!...Art, I have a set of straight cut gears from a 12deg split case. They are junk but I hung on to 'em just for grins. I'd post a pix of them but I'm a 'puter dummy.:D

[RiverRacer]

Art, I have a set of straight cut gears from a 12deg split case. They are junk but I hung on to 'em just for grins. I'd post a pix of them but I'm a 'puter dummy.:D

Bob, I'd like to see those send me the pics and I'll post them!..;)

[058]

Bob, I'd like to see those send me the pics and I'll post them!..;)
Art, I'll get a couple of pix for ya as soon as I can.

[RiverRacer]

Well, here's proof that there are straight cut gears that fit in a Casale split case, I have never seen this before, no MFG on it and the teeth count 32-38 is not on Casale's list, sooooo who made them I wonder????..:confused:

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9740/dcp00626uo5.jpg

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6676/dcp00627rv0.jpg

http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/3904/dcp00628bm6.jpg

[GR8WHITE]

Well, here's proof that there are straight cut gears that fit in a Casale split case, I have never seen this before, no MFG on it and the teeth count 32-38 is not on Casale's list, sooooo who made them I wonder????..:confused:

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/9740/dcp00626uo5.jpg

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6676/dcp00627rv0.jpg

http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/3904/dcp00628bm6.jpg

thats looks just like the gears in my v-drive

[Flatmvn]

[QUOTE=RiverRacer;3561]Well, here's proof that there are straight cut gears that fit in a Casale split case, I have never seen this before, no MFG on it and the teeth count 32-38 is not on Casale's list, sooooo who made them I wonder????..:confused: QUOTE]

Art you did it, I saw you. :D:D:D

[Mr. V-Driver]

Yes, some straight cut gears exizt! The angled gears make better teeth contact and are therefor stronger. Sometimes the math doesn't compute so we do what we can. A lot of Alcohol Hydro's and some Top Fuelies ran straight cut gears, Noise wasn't a Factor! And, we still cut them Today depending on customers request.

Example: 10* 1.20. Ever wondeer why guys run an 1.18 or a 1.22 and nothing inbetween? We have them but some don't like the NoIsE! :D;)

[shooter2]

Yes, some straight cut gears exizt! The angled gears make better teeth contact and are therefor stronger. Sometimes the math doesn't compute so we do what we can. A lot of Alcohol Hydro's and some Top Fuelies ran straight cut gears, Noise wasn't a Factor! And, we still cut them Today depending on customers request.

Example: 10* 1.20. Ever wondeer why guys run an 1.18 or a 1.22 and nothing inbetween? We have them but some don't like the NoIsE! :D;)


Do you ever laugh to your self when we are all trying to tell each other all about Casales products???? And what available and what isn't???? LOL

Brian

[RiverRacer]

[QUOTE=RiverRacer;3561]Well, here's proof that there are straight cut gears that fit in a Casale split case, I have never seen this before, no MFG on it and the teeth count 32-38 is not on Casale's list, sooooo who made them I wonder????..:confused: QUOTE]

Art you did it, I saw you. :D

Must have been in my sleep then, LOL..:D:D

[BradP]

Front should only have one gasket, no markings on the gears I take it!..:confused:

No degree stamp just ratio, tooth count and another reference #.